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HäI PHòNG, Vietnam

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Traffic heading out of Hanoi to the northeast coast funnels over the rust-coloured waters of the Red River on Highway 1 and then branches east on Highway 5 across the northern delta's most prolific rice fields. Road's end is HAIPHONG, a city of two million souls, where a vast, smoke-belching cement factory dominates the outskirts. But Haiphong isn't to be written off so easily and it comes as a pleasant surprise to find in the centre of this moderately quiet, orderly city an older district with low-key sites and subtle charms, shaded by ranks of flame trees. Broad avenues of well-tended colonial villas …
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