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An ancient borough and former port at the lowest bridging point of the Teifi Estuary, CARDIGAN (Aberteifi) was founded by the Norman lord Roger de Montgomery in 1093 around a castle. From the castle mound by the bridge, Bridge Street sweeps through High Street to the turreted oddity of the Guildhall. Through the Guildhall courtyard is the town's superb covered market, a typically eclectic mix of fresh food, local crafts and secondhand stalls.
Accommodation includes the old-fashioned Black Lion pub on High Street (Tel:01239/612532, Web: www.theblacklioncardigan.com ; Price: £50), which also does food, or the basic but decent Highbury House, the old county gaol, on Pendre (Tel:01239/613403, Web: www.llety.co.uk/highbury ; Price: Up to £40). A mile and a half east of town, the sixteenth-century Rosehill Farm in Llangoedmor (Tel:01239/612019, Web: www.rosehillfarm.co.uk ; closed Nov– March; Price: £50) offers a gorgeous riverside setting and excellent evening meals. There's a YHA hostel four miles away at Poppit Sands, at the end of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (Tel:0870/770 5996, Web: www.yha.org.uk ; closed Nov– Feb; dorms £14); buses connect in July and August, but otherwise terminate half a mile short. For food, try the inexpensive Theatr Mwldan café or Food For Thought, 13 Pendre, which offers a good range of hearty snacks and coffees.