Compass

Cuenca, Ecuador attracting visitors who don’t want to leave

Compass

One of Cuenca's 52 churches. (Photo: John Garay)

A colonial jewel of Ecuador, spilling over with cobblestoned streets, well-preserved churches and attractive leafy plazas—all tucked into a verdant Andean valley traversed by four winding rivers—Cuenca wins out as the country’s most idyllic urban locale.

From the Inca to the Spanish to the most recent wave of foreign settlers—this time, in the form of thousands of American retirees—it’s little wonder that outsiders have long descended on Cuenca in droves. Ecuador’s third-largest city, UNESCO-protected Cuenca is second to none when it comes to urban appeal, with a small-town, old-world feel that’s pleasantly devoid of what can be overbearing noise, pollution, and crowds in larger Ecuadorian cities (Quito, Guayaquil).

Tourists and settling pensioners alike can count on rave-worthy restaurants, welcoming watering holes, cozy cafes, heavenly handicrafts shops, and copious cultural events—all to be enjoyed at refreshingly low cost (easy enough to quantify, since Ecuador uses the U.S. dollar as currency).

Add to that a natural setting that affords plenty of opportunity to hike and exercise, spring-like year-round temps, affordable housing and healthcare, and a booming social scene teeming with expats, for a winning combination of a higher quality of life at a lower cost of living. So winning, in fact, that it’s become one of the most popular places in the world for Americans to retire overseas. Just back from a week on the ground there, here’s a firsthand look at just why this place is luring crowds for the long term.

Why go

Cajas National Park. (Photo: Metropolitan Touring Ecuador)

Cuenca’s city center touts enough colonial-era buildings—now converted into boutique hotels, shops, and eateries—and well-preserved churches (with 52 of them, churchgoers here have a venue for every week of the year) to warrant the city UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. The main square, Parque Calderón, comes fronted by both the Old Cathedral (Cuenca’s oldest structure, dating to the 16th century; it’s now a museum of religious art) and the monumental New Cathedral, drenched in marble and capped by the city’s iconic trio of blue-tiled domes.

The multilevel Central Bank Museum is well worth a gander for its display of Incan artifacts, colonial-period artworks, and more; out back, the Pumapungo archaeological site reveals ruins of a former Inca palace, alongside a botanical garden and aviary. Nearby, the Museum of Aboriginal Cultures showcases further indigenous archaeological finds, like funerary urns and primitive pottery.

Stroll or jog along the tree-lined paths of the Tomebamba River, pop into a Panama hat factory like Homero Ortega (Panama hats are actually Ecuadorian in origin), or head over to the hilltop Mirador de Turi for sweeping views over the city.

Outside the city center, Baños beckons with rejuvenating thermal baths and inexpensive spas treatments at Piedra de Agua. Or, take off for two worthwhile day trips into the Andean countryside at the Incan site of Ingapirca—the country’s most impressive Incan ruins; or, to the lagoon- and trail-traversed Cajas National Park, a glacially formed national park boasting 230-plus lakes (hook up with Metropolitan Touring for high-quality guided tours of the park, complete with transfers and lunch—they also do well-vetted introductory city tours).

Eat & sleep

Mansión Alzacar. (Photo: John Garay)

Fuel up on lip-smacking fare at Tiestos, the best culinary experience in town (at bargain rates, to boot), where an open kitchen turns out generous family-style servings of “tiesto” plates (served in tajine-style dishes) and delicious homemade dips and sauces.

Book a splurge-worthy stay at the lavish, 19-room Mansión Alcazar, set in a turn-of-the-century mansion with lovely gardens, antique- and chandelier-strewn décor, and a posh on-site bar and restaurant (rates from $105/night, including breakfast). Or, for a solid budget bet, try the newish, family-run, nine-unit Casa Lloret Hostal, a 10-minute ride outside of the city center, where Ecuadorian hospitality is met by clean modern rooms in a scenic residential nabe (rates from $40/night with breakfast).

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