Europe by night trains

I’ve always heard about how extensive trains are in Europe that they rival the highways that span across the United States. They even have several routes that travel overnight. I began thinking that one could take these trains instead of staying at a hotel or hostel.
I heard that Eurail was offering their one month global pass at a discount. I decided to take up on the offer.
I was able to collect enough Delta miles to get a ticket to Europe, so I cashed that in.
Scheduling all the different night trains was difficult. I had to wade across a lot of information just to find out which cities had these types of routes. Since all the night trains are special, they needed to be reserved, but most of them wouldn’t let people reserve earlier than 60 days in advance. I wanted to make them all together, so I waited until the end of March. The problem was that some of the trains for around the first two weeks were already filled, so I had to find alternate ways of getting into some cities. This means less time in some of them. I don’t mind, as long as I didn’t miss my connections.
Another consideration was packing. I knew that I have a good size backpack, one that has wheels, but I wasn’t sure that it was broken or not. After a quick inspection I found out what it was. The cheap plastic strap-adjusting buckle broke. I was able to repair it by tying a metal karabiner to the straps. I was no longer adjustable, but at least it was together. Besides, this pack I will leave at the station, either in a locker or the baggage holding area. I wasn’t planning to carry it, or more likely roll it all around town. What I plan to carry is a smaller bag with any thing I’ll need recently started collecting luggage tags, from companies giving them away at trade shows, which I could use. I hear that before you can leave bags at the luggage holding area at the stations, they copy your passport photo and tag it to your stuff for easy identification. What I did was put that picture on my luggage tag so they wouldn’t need to. I didn’t want to pack a cumbersome voltage converter, so that means no rechargeable devices like computers or cell phones. I will take a digital camera and a CD player. They both use AA batteries and I added 2 24 packs of these. I burned 30 CDs so that I can listen to one each day and since they are copies I don’t have to worry about losing them. The camera also uses SD memory cards and I happen to have 8 of them with carrying containers. I got them for use not only for this but my camcorder can use them as well as mini DVDs. I’ve used this feature to get still on the camcorder. But since the battery is rechargeable, I will have to leave that at home. I also needed to consider how much clothes I will take for the whole month. I got some of those bags that the air inside can be vacuumed out. One suggestion I heard is to pack a roll of toilet paper since some places, like the train, could run out. Those little 3 ounce bottles will never last me the entire trip, so I will have to shop for some necessaries when I arrive. I will take a notebook to write whenever there’s some downtime, like waiting for a train. One thing I found at Bed Bath & Beyond near me is a travel sheet that folds up into a roll. I’ve heard of something like this that some backpackers use in hostels. There also some dollar stores near me that I was able to find some useful items, like a combination lock that works well with my backpack. I’m a little weary about drinking water in other countries. I found a small bottle with a filter system that I can use. I also have a bottle carrier with a shoulder strap. One nifty thing I found is these towels that are condensed into the size of a pill, add a little water, and they expand and fold out into a washcloth. I packed a bottle of aspirin and vitamins. I have several travel medical kits so I have to pick one to take. I also found some antibiotic that comes in a small spray bottle. I also got a travel size spot remover stick. I also will be wearing a money belt to keep my cards, cash, and other valuables. I heard that sweat can soak through them so it’s best to put paper items in plastic bags. I packed a box of more plastic bags for this and other needs. I purchased a pack of socks and underpants for this trip. Keeping them in their original bags makes it easy to pack.

A few weeks before my trip, I had a lot of anxiety. Some of it from other things in my life, but mostly about the trip, like if anything went wrong. If I miss a train it can throw off my whole schedule. When I arrived at Regan national airport, some excitement has counteracted all my other feelings so I was in some middle ground.
Across from where I’m sitting there is an Asian family in casual dress, but they are led by a man in a suit. He must be some tour operator or guide. The plane to Boston is small; we had to get on from the tarmac & leave our carry on bags to be loaded. I sat next to a guy who was going to his funereal of his step-mother; she was 96. He got out a DVD player after reading a book.
On the plane to Paris I sat next to a woman going home to Scotland. Her son married someone from the states and she was visiting that family.
Charles DeGalle airport is OK. I heard that it was dirty, but since it was mostly glass, metal, and lots of concrete there’s not a lot of places to get dirty. The first thing that struck me about Paris is that even something functional like a factory can be stylish. I mentioned this to someone later and he reminded me that most of Paris’s economy is based on fashion, art, and other forms of style.
I had a hard time finding my way out of this airport; it had mostly one way exits. I was told that I can get my eurorail pass validated at terminal one, but I found out that I had to get it done at the rail station in terminal three. The person at the booth was able to stamp it and while I was there I bought a pack of ten metro tickets. I was going to be in Paris for several days and I wanted to be able to get between the half dozen train stations easily as well as other places. I hope my return to this airport will not be as difficult.
I ended up at the Paris north station, “Garde De Nord”, and went to the Eurostar counter and got tickets for the London train, the one that goes through the Chunnel. That afternoon I found out that they gave me the wrong departure date. I rushed through Metro back to Nord. It was hard finding connections on the subway, but they came only a few minutes apart so I didn’t have to wait long. Eurostar was able to refund and exchange my tickets.
Before I had to rush back, I made a stop at the hotel I was going to stay at before I leave. It was nice, not far from the train station and a metro stop up the block. But if Paris has a Harlem, this may have been it. Someone told me that most immigrants come from a country that used to be a colony of their new residents, while in the states they are refugees from a nation with the conflict du jour.
I got back to Bercy station two hours before my train left. During the day I wandered the area around Bercy & Lyon stations. I usually leave my big bag and some other stuff in a locker, but I didn’t have any coins. I ended up hauling all my stuff around, but it wasn’t bad at all.
One of the things that stuck me as odd was that several shops were closed, even on a Friday. I later found out that May first, May Day, is a holiday all throughout Europe. I did find an ATM at some credit union and got enough cash that lasted me for several weeks. That’s not as amazing as it sounds since I did use my credit cards whenever possible.
One of the things I missed in the states was free toilets. But the pay for use public rest rooms always had attendants and is kept spotless. Some stations also have paid showers available, which is good to have for someone in my situation.
In every city I was able to find either a supermarket or a store front grocers and buy some fruit to snack on. I made a point to get a bottle of wine and a small baguette when I’m in Paris. I had some cups, so I was prepared to share some with anyone I meet on the trains. However, no one ever took up on my offer. I usually had them in the evening so it will help me sleep. I was also in the market for a corkscrew, but the wine I bought was so cheap, mostly less than two Euros, that they didn’t use traditional corks.
While roaming around this part of Paris, I found something that looked like an aqueduct, following along a street for what must have been a mile. The arches that support it contained shops. Over the cross streets train tussles formed a bridge. I could see people walking on the top of this structure. I found some stairs leading up to that level and found a garden walk. I went east on it and found a large park area full of people.
This is why I wonder around, even near home. You can come across some of the most interesting things, and even though I can come across the sights where all tourist stop at, I can find places only locals frequent.
I got back to the station and found my train when it arrived. With me in the couchette was a young (maybe only two years old) rambunctious girl and her mother was already inside. At one point this girl put her face right up to my eyes. Her mother discovered that she was fascinated with her own reflection in my glasses. I recall some of my cousin’s children used to do that when they were very little. A couple later joined us. We were all going to Milan. I found out that the railroad tries to put people going to the same destination in the same compartment.
A couchette is a sleeping compartment with six bunk beds. I try and usually get a top bunk because I’m out of the way of everyone and that no one else seems to like them.
During the night the mother had to step out and the girl started crying.
Saturday, May 2
I made a mistake on scheduling this part of my trip. I tried to book a train from Milan to Barcelona, but they don’t run that route on Saturday. Instead I got a flight for that part. It was very early, so I had to take the bus straight from the station to the airport. My visit to Milan consisted of the 45 minute view from my window. Like most European cities, it had some interesting architecture. I didn’t realize how close it was to the mountains.
One of the things that had me worried during the trip was that the flight was booked under “Joe Thacker” instead of “Joseph Thacker” which all my identification has. But I was able to get aboard with no problem. I did have an unopened bottle of cheap wine that I had to leave behind.
I waited at what I thought was my gate until a woman came up and asked if this was the flight to Prague. We checked the display of departing planes and found out it was her gate. I had enough time to find my correct gate.
The flight to Barcelona was not crowded so I got a row all to myself. I was still so tired that I dozed off and missed any meal service they had aboard. I think it costs extra, like on most airlines, so it was OK.
At the airport I found the train into town. I was able to use my Europass so I didn’t need to buy a ticket, but I had to show my pass again in order to leave the gate. In most cities it is made clear on how long a bag can be left in a station’s locker. If you leave it in longer than the time paid for, additional coins had to be added before the contents are released. I don’t think it was clear in Barcelona. I had to find someone in information who spoke English to let me know if that was the case. This incident may have scared me off from talking to others unless needed.
I had my one meal at the station. Let me take some time to let you know about my eating habits in Europe. I know that part of the experience of visiting a country is trying the different native foods there; it’s a part of their culture. Half of the shows on the travel channel are dedicated towards cuisine. I’m sorry but I don’t feel that way. I would rather stop in a nearby McDonald’s or Burger King, and that’s what I did. However, I only did this once a day and I always packed some fruit to stave away any hunger. I also purchased a good size bottle of mineral water. In some supermarkets it was cheaper (some places for ten euro-cents) than plain bottled water. I think the reason is that fewer people buy the mineral, so it costs less.
I headed south, hoping to hit the sea and the beach. I ended up going down a broad avenue past some government buildings and other places. I must have went too far because I ended up in some industrial area. I can see a large mountain northeast with several structures on its side. Walking closer, I was able to see that the part I noticed was a cemetery, but the other half was a park with a fortress at the summit. I was able to get to that part and found a beautiful park. A Rolls Royce pulled up and a wedding couple stepped out. I found a cable car that took people from the park to a tower on a pier. I got on it. When I got down from the tower I headed for the nearby marina. There was a flea market nearby, selling all sorts of antiques and nick knacks.
One of the many gadgets I took was a water bottle that had a filter in it, so I didn’t have to worry about questionable water sources. I had it in a holder that hooked onto my belt with a Velcro strap, but it fell off and I lost it.
I finally got to the beach, but it was late in the day. I wandered down the area between the sand and the street, the “boardwalk”, and off in the distance I could see a carnival with a Ferris wheel and other rides. I headed down to it and found out it was in a place called the Forum, which is used for performances. I guess it was made for their Olympics. A trolley stops at this forum and took me part of the way back to the train station, but it took hours to walk the rest of the way.
Sunday, May 3
I headed back to the beach but this time I took the subway. It was great. I walked across the beach and they had a lot more people there. Remember, this was a holiday weekend so a lot of people were spending their time at places like this. I consider myself a bit of a hermit, so I’m a poor judge of this; but from people watching all across Europe I would have to say that they are better looking. Maybe it’s because more of the fashion industry resides there. However, I don’t think they’re that different from us. Teenagers will have the same inflexions in their voices and give an exasperated sigh whenever the subject of their parents comes up. Businessmen still hurry to their next appointment, holding their cell phone up to their ears.
Since I had a rough night I relaxed most of the afternoon and waited for my next train. I got on the train to Madrid. Instead of a couchette, the compartment had no beds. On it was a young lady from Belgium studying in Madrid. She once visited Virginia and North Carolina to play soccer. There were also three ladies with a small girl, maybe 3 or 4 years old. When I woke up the ladies were gone and some guys were riding with us. I didn’t have time to talk with them.
Monday, May 4
In Madrid I took the subway to a park that I’ve seen on maps. It was large & beautiful, with a boat pond. I wandered north back towards the station and found a broad avenue with walkways up the median. This type of street seems typical in most European cities. I wandered off and on, through some neighborhoods and finally got back to the station.
I found Madrid is like most capital cities; not only does it have its parks, museums, and monuments but also government buildings housing the different departments need to run a modern country and financial institutions. If course, it was a Monday and most of the people I saw were in suits.
Let me explain how I managed to find my way around these European cities. Some are very complex. One thing that helped was that I brought along a compass. It was very helpful. Also most cities have buses and subway. I can find a stop with a good map to help me get oriented. One of the biggest problems is not just the strange non English names of the streets, but that instead of having signs on street posts, they are attached on the sides of buildings. Some corners didn’t have any signs so there were times when I wasn’t sure I was going the right direction.
At the station I was keeping an eye on the departure display board for my train. It gave the number of one track but when I arrive the train wasn’t there. I wasn’t the only one who made this mistake so I followed the others to the right track. When I booked his train the price for both classes must have been the same because I was in first class. The car was more like the ones in the States; rows of seats and no compartments. Very comfortable and was able to stretch out for sleeping. There was an Asian family sitting across the car, but I don’t think they understood English. There’s a noisy bunch of teens in the next car, when we left the platform they had a big sendoff. I heard lots of squeals & some screams early in the trip.
Tuesday, May 5
Returned to Paris and I was going to see some of the sights this city has to offer. The weather was cool and cloudy. I took the metro, got a little lost, but got out near Notre Dame Cathedral. I didn’t stay long. I then headed toward the Louvre, and found some monument on the way. I approached the back of the museum and followed around the front. This place is huge! After seeing the outside I headed away on the Champs-Élysées. The first part of it was parks, but further up it became shops and cafes. I found two McDonalds there, and ate in one.
I hear that the only way to get to the Arc de Triomphe, at least safely, was an underpass across the traffic circle. I was able to get admission into the arch on one of my credit cards. I tried some card at some other places, mostly automatic vending, but they didn’t work for some reason. It was a long climb up the spiral stairs inside the arch. Before I got to the top, there were a couple of floors inside with exhibits on the arch. One thing I thought was interesting was a flat screen monitor on the floor, displaying the scene down below. There must be a small camera on the bottom of the arch. It was a very nice view from the top. I was able to find the elevator and used that to get down.
I then headed towards the Eiffel tower. I remembered that it was across the river, but there are several bridges for me to cross. I found the one nearest to the tower, just west of it. Several people around were selling souvenirs. I didn’t buy any wherever I went because I didn’t want to carry them around for weeks.
I got in line for the security check, much like the airport. Used my card to buy the ticket and waited my turn to get on the elevator.
It looks like the Eiffel Tower has two elevators, one in each leg on opposite sides. I’m not sure if the other one was working. The car had two levels so it could carry more people. When it went up a leg, it had to go up a slope; then it angled straight up. There was some work being done on part of the tower, so it had some scaffolding. Just outside a window, a man was hanging hundreds of feet.
I’ve been to the Eiffel tower in Las Vegas and the one in King’s Dominion. They don’t compare to the original. There are more iron girders filling between the larger ones that gave it detail. I was able to get most of my tourist stuff out of the way in less than a day.
After this visit I headed south looking for a subway station. I met a couple looking for the same. I found a RER station, which is the French commuter train system that took me back to the train station. The kind of cars this rail system uses are double-decker.
While waiting for the train a big burley guy wearing a little girl dress, a baby bonnet & a bib that read “kiss me” in English. There were two to three guys with cameras following him. I guess this will show up soon on an internet near you.
The train car was another like the ones in the states with reclining seats. It wasn’t crowded so I was able to get an area to myself. Never saw the conductor.
Wednesday, May 6
I arrived in Nice. Headed south for the beach, stayed on the “board walk”. The beach had more rocks than sand and there weren’t many people, but then it was Wednesday. Made it back to the station. It’s not very big. Most stations have a waiting area that passengers can hang out at. I could even find places to sit on the platforms. Even though it’s small, Nice struck me as being touristy.
Woo-hoo! I’m going back to Paris on a TGV. That’s France’s fast train. First Class! This was the route I had to get a travel agent to help me with.
The good news is that I’ll have 7 hours to get to airport for my flight to Venice. The bad news is that I’ll arrive after midnight and the subway maybe closed then. I wandered around the train and found a couple of guys who speak English. I asked them about the train to Charles DeGalle and they were able to tell the conductor. After checking he said that metro runs until one in the morning, enough time for me to get to the airport.
It was good sleeping at over 200 miles per hour. I got into Lyon station early. I got a little lost but found the train to the airport. I wandered around the terminal until I found a machine that gave me my boarding pass. Found a non-paying bathroom to change my clothes in. I had a bottle of wine that I drank most of, so I left it near a trash container since I wouldn’t be allowed to bring it on the plane. I noticed a guy wandering the halls with a cart fill of stuff, he looked like a derelict. Some time later I noticed that the bottle I left was on his cart.
Thursday, May 7
I got a little sleep. I found that the floor in some terminals were tiny mosaic tiles. I can see that dirt can be trapped in the gaps between tiles. So much for Paris at night.
I got a row to myself. My plane had me change flights in Copenhagen. It was cold and rainy, but I was in the airport all the time. It was nice, had a quiet waiting area. In the shopping area there were microphones hanging from the ceiling.
I got on the plane, two ladies sat next to me but we didn’t talk. I could see out the windows that we were flying over some mountain ranges, they could be the Alps.
The airport in Venice wasn’t very big. When I landed I found an information counter and asked how to get to the train station. I was told to buy a ticket for a bus that shuttles down near the station. I got a little confused because I thought my ticket may have been for another city. The bus dropped me off at a depot a block south of the trains.
In Italy they don’t have lockers. They have a left luggage office. Even though I had my passport picture on the tag, they still made a copy and stuck it on my bag. I think they charge more for holding your stuff, and I believe it made me think that this country is more expensive than others.
I heard that Venice can be touristy, and the main parts are. I did wander around and found some residential areas. Not bad. Looking across the water, I though the main attractions, like the plaza & tower, were on an island in the distance and the only way to get there was by boat, no bridges. But later after wandering around I found everything was nearby. I did find a very nice park; I was surprised because I always though of Venice as a man made island made up of buildings and canals. There was also something that looked like a sports stadium near the navy headquarters.
So far, I’ve only seen dogs. Lots of dogs. I think that’s because they need to be walked and cats don’t. I did see a woman across a canal with several cats. She must have had every cat in Venice. Later on in my travels I did see some cats hanging around some shops.
I walked around some more and found the Realto Bridge. On both sides small shops were set up in the alcoves.
I don’t know if there’s a part of Venice I didn’t cover. It’s full of narrow streets and blind turns. I found this typical of some Italian cities.
Friday, May 8
I got a little sleep, but I was OK. I did get up the tower, but like most of Venice, I t seems too expensive. I was able to find my way back from the square across town to the train station. I lost my personal cleaning items, like toothpaste, soap, etc. so I had to buy more when I got to a store.
I was in another couchette with a guy, Diego, from Guatemala, who is living in Washington helping a friend with his restaurant. He was travelling before heading back home. A family from St. Petersburg, a couple with a son who was studying computer science in college, was also there. A woman was assigned a top bunk, but she said she couldn’t do it, making a choking sound to explain why. The conductor was able to move her to another compartment.
Saturday, May 9
Vienna, or Wien, was very good. The day started out cloudy with some sprinkles, but it was nicer later. Since the station was west of the city I headed east. I was able to find the main shopping boulevard.
Wandered around until I got to a block where all the museums were. Further down was the palace. Beyond that was a very nice plaza. I was able to find a park near the river and they had some sort of food festival there. It featured all sorts of products from nearby farms & villages.
I was able to get back to the main shopping street when a parade started to come down. It was a demonstration for legalizing marijuana. Just off this road was a comics shop. It was full of collectible figures and other toys, but not many comics.
I though that for such a major city, Vienna’s train station was small. But I found an exhibit that explained why. The place was going through renovation and expansion.
I was able to get aboard the train early. In another compartment, there was a family with a boy who was playing the violin. Only one other guy, who gave his English version of his name as Bill, was in the no bunk compartment. He was a chemical engineer working on bio-plastics living near Amsterdam. We had a good talk.
Sunday, May 10
I got into Cologne or “Koln” a little late. Most of the trains in Europe do, so you have to give extra time if you’re changing them at a station.
Cold and cloudy, almost foggy but it got better later in the day. I heard that most of the city’s main attractions, like the cathedral, is near the train station. A lot of the streets, like most cities here, are blocked off from car traffic to let people walk and bike. The major shops are down these streets, but since it was Sunday most of them were closed.
I found at least one shop that displayed clowns. They were like some sort of sports mascot. I’m trying to imagine a team called the Koln Clowns. They are some people who find them scary.
I wandered towards the river and found a castle like building on the water. Part of it was made into a modern style museum. In the distance I saw a suspension bridge. Heading back the river bank was a park were people hung out. There I discovered a bar on wheels serving beer. The stools had pedals beneath it. The patrons pumped them like a bicycle and the bartender steered.
I think that Cologne is typical of European cities.
Yea! First class again! This time it’s the German’s fast train, the ICE. These have personal televisions, but they only show one channel and it has news stories about their railroad system. It also has music, but everything’s in German.
When the train crossed the river, the bridge had a walkway with chain link fence separating it from the tracks. There were several padlocks hooked in the grate. I later found out that they are love locks, way young couples can proclaim their devotion much like carving initials into a tree.
I was worried about catching the train in Ulm. My seats were in a non-couchette compartment. There was one other guy but it was so late we didn’t talk. I was able to lay across the seats until we arrived into Salzburg.
Monday, May 11
I got there very early; the air still had a chill. I walked south from the station and across the river. I found some interesting things on the other side, like a small cathedral and a castle atop a large hill. It had a funicular railroad lead heading up towards it. I followed the river to a park and got back to the train station early.
Near it were a couple of shopping malls, one had a movie theatre. I went to one to see the new Star Trek film. It was very different from the ones in the states. For one thing, instead of the first come first served festival seating, you’re assign a seat just like if you’re got to see a play. The theatres were huge and the seats comfy. However the film was dubbed in German.
When I got out of the theatre it looked like it might rain. Sure enough, when I got to the station it started to pour.
Got another first class seat. Not as good as the others, but still nice. There was only one other guy in the car. I got a little worried because the train number was different than that on my ticket, but everything else, like the time and car number, was OK.
Another sitting compartment; only one other person, a young lady, was inside. She also just wanted to sleep so we didn’t talk much. From the equipment she was carrying, she must have been an experienced backpacker.
Tuesday, May 12
I got into Frankfurt early. It was cold and windy. I headed east through the finance and shopping district. Later I made my way south toward the river. It was a good thing that I got there early because later in the day it rained.
Frankfurt seems to me has a few less tourist attractions and more business than other cities. It may have less history than others.
The train out was a non compartment style. I sat next to a lady who may have not spoken English. She seemed more interested in reading her newspaper than talking. I was able to seep part of the way. Later a guy sat next to me who was reading a book in English on high level math. Anyone reading that kind of stuff would have to take a break at some point, which he did. I talked to him and found out that he now lives in England but used to reside in New Jersey. He got the book from Harvard. Another lady joined us, it seemed that she was travelling with some other people in another compartment; we didn’t talk.
I had to change trains in Dresden. I had 2 hours and it was late, so I just hung out in the train station. It was smaller than others but it was very nice.
Wednesday, May 13
I got a compartment with a young business student who was looking for a job. We had a nice talk. She thinks Prague is OK, not like the stories I’ve heard, like pickpockets.
Instead of sleeping in the top bunk I laid across some seats facing the window. I had weird dreams were a flash of light suddenly filled my vision and things changed, like some time has passed. I would be talking to someone then flash, they were gone. It was like I lost memory of some time. I think what was causing this was the light flashing by outside and we didn’t have curtains.
Even though it was still the middle of the night, I got into Prague almost a half hour late. I did reserve a cab weeks ago. The police came up to me and I explained about the cab. They told me he was here and waited twenty minutes before he left. They called me another cab.
It took me to a club where I stayed until closing. I took another cab back. I had about fifty dollars worth of Czech money and I used up most of it.
I waited until morning for the left luggage office to open. There were a few other people hanging around the station, even a group of young adults. There was a girl with them that had a pet rat that she let crawl around her long red hair. If they were going on a train, something like that would freak some of the other passengers. I’ve seen people with dogs in some train stations. I heard that they are allowed on the trains if they wear a muzzle.
I was glad the luggage office took Euros. I headed south towards the center of the city. I went down a long stretch of road that was bumper to bumper traffic. I was waking faster than the cars. I didn’t see many bikes but there were more highways than other cities here. They do have some trolleys that look like they came from the forties or fifties.
The river weaves around the town so I had to cross it. There were some nice park areas around it. I was able to find the old part of town where most of the tourist spots are at. One of them was an ancient clock. I thought it would be higher off the ground but it was only a few feet above the sidewalk. I waited with the crowd for it to ring and watch the figures of the saints go past and bow in prayer. I thought it was neat that it had a skeleton standing on the site with an hourglass and ringing a small bell, tolling the time for all men.
I headed back to the station. When I crossed the river I went over a lock that was left open so that some kayaks can have some rapids. Just before I reached the station I saw someone get beat up a little. I think he may have owed someone stuff and was being reminded of his obligations. I was a little worried about Prague and crime there, but it turned out OK.
My train got in a little late. I thought I might have a couchette to myself but then a lady from Amsterdam came in. she was with friends in a different compartment. I did see my first dog on a train; a police dog. When we stopped in Dresden a guy joined us. We didn’t talk, but I did notice that he was reading a book about Star Trek.
Thursday, May 14
Arrived in Amsterdam. Headed for the center of the city. There was an old mansion that was made into a restaurant in the middle of a square. There was a street market there that day. Mostly antiques and other junk. I wandered around and got a little lost. I was able to return to the station.
I sat down at the bar of the Gran Café brasserie and ordered a beer. When I pulled out my card to pay they told me they didn’t take them, even though on their door it says that credit cards are accepted. What a jip. I used their toilet, though.
I got on another ICE, again first class. It had the same television broadcasting the same show. I changed trains in Frankfurt, another non-sleeping compartment. I met a guy, Martin, who grew up in Vienna and was going back to visit family. He recommended an ice cream, or gelato, place on the south end of the city.
Around midnight a very frumpy man, he could very well be homeless, came into our compartment. He had several bags and kept writing in one of many notebooks that he had. When the conductor came and asked for a ticket, he produced some sort of card. The conductor had to work long and hard to process this man. I felt very uneasy with him around. When I woke up in the morning, the man was gone but I discovered that so was my camera! I did leave it on a shelf that was easy for anyone to reach, so I wasn’t that careful. I did change memory cards before I got to Prague, so I only lost that and Amsterdam, which I will return to. But from now on whenever someone comes to me begging for money, I’ll let them know that I already contributed. Later a group of four teenage girls sat in our compartment.
Friday, May 15
Cool and cloudy all day in Vienna. Headed what I thought was south, but was a different direction. I did get back on that main shopping street. I found a street market that had to be a mile long. I got back to the main shopping street and saw a couple of horse drawn carriages with a wedding party. I found an electronics store and found another camera to replace the other.
I was afraid that I would only have fifteen minutes to change trains, less if it was late, but I was lucky enough to find an earlier train to take me to my next destination. With my pass I was able to just hop on and get a first class seat. I mostly hung out in the dining car. This almost made up for all the bad stuff that happened so far. I noticed a flat screen display on the wall; it gave the speed and a GPS map of our location.
I changed trains in Munich so I had time to explore the station, since I was going to stop here later. I was able to find the smaller, cheaper lockers. I also found the food court; had some Belgium style fries with beer.
My next train was a couchette. In the top bunk opposite me was a very beautiful young lady. She was having trouble with the sheets. I never used them, but I can see that it was shaped like a pocket, and I told her to try using it like a sleeping bag. We had a good talk. She told me that she was a student of politics. She could have taken an earlier train, bud she had late exams. I’m sure that one day she would come to Washington. I noticed that she had a large backpack that was loaded with camping stuff. She told me that she trains scout councilors, like my cousin Martha, and that she is going to a meeting of scouts from Germany & France, very much like a jamboree. Unlike in the states, these scouts were co-ed.
Another guy came into our compartment, but it was late so we didn’t talk much.
Saturday, May 16
Arrived back in Paris cold & cloudy. I headed west for Sacré Coeur in Montmartre near the train station. It’s that domed church that’s on the highest hill in Paris. I got a little lost but was able to find a back way to the church. Near it was a nice garden. I got to the fount were there was a lot of people touring the place. There was at least one guy trying to do a scam where he ties colorful string on your finger and it is so hard to get off that you have to give him money for it. I never let him get started on me. People in at least this part of Paris can be so pushy.
I wander around the neighborhood streets and shops. Got back to the station when it started to sprinkle. There was a tent just outside the station where there was an exhibit of some new train seats and other stuff that they are thinking about having in the near future. I think they wanted to see how people liked them.
The train was very crowded. I found out that a car had a broken window so they had to move people out of it. I had reserved a seat but someone already taken it. I found another seat in a nicer car; I thought it was first class.
I sat in one of those areas where you face other passengers, with a table in between. There was a couple sharing an earphone listening to music. All throughout Europe couples don’t mind showing their affection in public, and these were no exception. Sitting next to me was an older woman who tried to keep her distance and covered her nose. I think she was very sensitive to smells, maybe mine. She didn’t stay too long.
This was one of the few times I was able to take in the scenery. The clouds had shading that reminded me of
We stopped in Forbach station and I think they were changing engineers but the new one was running late. Either stuck in traffic or car problems. There was a guy sitting across the isle from me who was sleeping earlier but then we started talking. I found out that he was from Orlando and was here on business.
I changed to a train going to Berlin that had special reclining seats for overnight passengers. I never got comfortable in them. The car was also full of teenagers, so full that some sat in the luggage compartments at the end of the car. They all yelled in French, I think they were from Belgium. When the light went out, they all fell asleep like putting a blanket over a bird cage.
Sunday, May 17
Berlin’s train station was big and modern. Like most European cities, I found it easy to walk around. I guess when you make a city before cars, it has to be walk able. When you look at a map and see that someplace is five blocks away, that’s only a five to ten minute walk away.
I got to the Reichstag just as it was opening. There was a line, but not a long one. I met an elderly couple who grew up in Germany, but are now living near Charlottesville. I told them that my cousin Glenn was an X-ray technician when Christopher Reeves has his accident. They told me that they used to live in Princeton, New Jersey and they were neighbors with his mother. Talk about six degrees of separation. The line was slow not only because we had to take an elevator up but also security was a bit tight.
After going through the cool glass dome above parliament, I went south to the Brandenburg Gate. On the western side they were building a stage for a concert or some other event. I found a sign that had the date of the 23rd, but I couldn’t read the rest.
I went east up the main boulevard. Outside of a university, people were getting a book sale set up. I found a tour book with pictures of Washington from almost a hundred years ago. Further down near the river bank an arts & crafts fair was just starting. There’s a Madame Tussauds wax museums on this street, but I didn’t think I had enough time to see that and all the other things in Berlin.
It was a very nice walk up to the tower. I was able to see a lot of Berlin from up there. I headed back to the gate and on the east side there was some rally for gay/lesbian/transgender/etc. I kept going west past the gate and the street was closed to traffic so the concert/event can be set up. While the east from the gate was businesses and shopping, west is all park. I noticed a tall monument down the boulevard. I went down to get a closer look. By the time I got there, a bike rally was going around the traffic circle surrounding the monument. Instead of professional bike racers, it looked like it was mostly made of average people who just got together to have a Sunday ride.
I took a street north and passed by a large mansion. I noticed that there was a guard on the grounds. I later found out that this was the German president’s home; Berlin’s White House. I crossed the river and found a nice walkway that follows it. I found a nice beer garden, but I wasn’t sure about the menu so I didn’t eat there.
I got back to the station. I was worried that I didn’t have enough time to change trains in Cologne. I was able to hop aboard an earlier train with my euro rail pass. I even got into first class, but there was no air conditioning. There were some groups of couples, mostly middle age, in the same car but I don’t think they spoke English. Besides, they were enjoying their own company and I didn’t want to needlessly bother them.
It turns out that I was wrong. I had plenty of time for the next train, and it was on the same platform, and it was fifteen minutes late. Everyone was asleep when I got into the couchette.
Monday, May 18
It was very early when I arrived into Brussels. I had enough time to walk to the Atomism. I got a little lost on the way. When I arrived, there was a stage in front of it and men were disassembling it. It looks like there was a concert here last night. There was also a lot of empty drink cans, the same brand, all around the trash cans.
The Atomism was the centerpiece of the 1958 World Exposition. It had a few exhibits about that event. There was a group of kids on a field trip there and an older gentleman was telling them something about the history and architecture of the structure. I think that is a natural way of doing things.
Nearby was a park with models of some of the most famous buildings on this continent called Mini-Europe. It was more crowded than the Atomism, but then it was later in the morning. Some were kids, but there were some seniors.
I got on a subway and headed downtown. Belgiums are big on comics, especially locally made “Tin-Tin” About the exploits of a young reporter. It set the standard for all boy adventure stories. They even have their own comic book museum. I wanted to stop by and take a quick look. It was difficult finding the place behind some government buildings. When I arrived, I discovered that it was closed for that day.
Since the European Union is headquartered here, they seem to have less national pride and more European pride. There was more car traffic than other places, much like Prague. I’m glad that I shaved my head before I left. Not only do I not have to worry about dirty hair, but I seem to fit in with some of the other guys there. But for a country full of shaven head men, it looks like they have a lot of hairdressers.
I got on a train back to Cologne, again first class, but this time they included a small meal; Ham and moldy cheese with pilaf. We made a stop at a town, Lege Geleen, That looked like a small quaint town except for some very modern looking structures like a suspension bridge.
I got on a train to Hamburg. Shared a couchette with a family with a teen son. I needed to catch up on my sleep so I didn’t talk to them much.
Tuesday, May 19
I got up just in time to leave the train. I found a large lake and took a walk around it. In the distance I saw a large media tower. I headed towards it and came across a beautiful botanic garden. There were a few bicycles, but still a lot of car traffic. In the park I saw a mother carrying her children on a bike with a wooden wheelbarrow on the fount. Later when I get to Amsterdam I would come across the same thing.
I got to the tower which was part of some convention center. Both were closed. There was scaffolding around the base of the tower; it looked like they may be adding some security measures before it is opened to the public.
I found another street with no car traffic. Above the trees, I saw the top of a large statue, but I didn’t get any closer for a good look.
I was trying to find a way back to the train station when I saw a large gas balloon tethered in the distance. I headed towards it and found out that it gives rides. So I gave it a try. I had great views of the city. I noticed that most of the buildings are the same height; that this is a regulation against being taller than the nearby churches.
When I got back to the station, I had time to look around. I found there’s a great market inside the vast area of it. I found one of the main shopping plaza and a small park with vendors.
When I was growing up my siblings did not like mashed potatoes, maybe they considered it a vegetable, so our mother threaten that if we didn’t eat them all up, she’ll make potato pancakes the next morning. It became an inside joke that if we didn’t eat a certain food it would be made into pancakes. “Better eat that pork chop, or we’ll have pork-chop-cakes tomorrow.” “Better eat that cake or we’ll have…er…” Well, one of the booths was cooking up a batch of potato pancakes in a large vat of hot oil.
The plaza ended up at a square outside of city hall. Further down there was a canal that ended at a lake with a fountain.
I’ve now come to expect the trains to be a few minutes late, which is why I took earlier trains for those connections that were less than thirty minutes. But the one to Zurich was over an hour late. This didn’t affect my schedule, but I hope that it will not happen on other routes. I think most of the other passengers for this train found other ways to get to their destinations because it wasn’t many people aboard. This one had those reclining seats.
Wednesday, May 20
At a stop called Base we stayed for a long time because the boarder police was checking everyone. When I arrived in Zurich I left my big bag at the left luggage office and was able to pay with a credit card. I headed north to a park that jetted out into the water.
I crossed the river and headed up some cobble stone streets to higher ground. At the top I found one of the oldest churches in the city. They offered tours and a visit to their tower at a good price but I didn’t have any Swiss francs so I couldn’t pay.
I headed back to the park. On the banks of the river, a circus tent was set up. Later while walking across a bridge near it I passed a little person who still had some clown makeup on. While wandering down the lake’s edge, I noticed someone wearing a white mask in the water was being photographed.
There were a lot of people hanging around this park; you would think it was a weekend. I always thought of Switzerland as being a lot of mountains. Even though there were some off in the horizon, Zurich is on a lake so it is more like a waterfront city.
I went to the other side of the lake and found more parks and gardens. I headed back to the station by taking some of the city streets. Like most large train stations, this one had some good shopping areas. I found a store that had the same type of camera that I lost. I purchased it.
I got aboard the train for my return to Amsterdam. Another reclining seat (ugh) and the air conditioning was off. A bunch of sports fans was in my car, drinking, singing and yelling. Some other passengers asked them to be quiet, but that only aggravated them and just got louder. Later we made a long enough stop for most of them got off for a smoke. I thing the conductor gave them a talk and they quieted down during the rest of the trip. He didn’t come around to check tickets; I think he was too afraid to face this rowdy crowd. I hope their team loses and they get arrested for rioting.
I still had trouble sleeping because of the heat and the seat was uncomfortable. I got up to look around the train. I found the bar, but that was very crowded. I came across a car that was used to store bicycles. There was nobody there and it was cool. I grabbed my stuff and lay down on the floor and was able to get some sleep. Later I met some of the owners of the bikes. They informed me that these bike trains only run on weekends and spring and summer.
Thursday, May 21
When I arrive in a city, I try to find a place that gives tourist information. One thing I noticed is that they are there not so much to give out stuff but to sell tours and tickets. There was such a place across the street from the station. They were offering discount tickets to Madam Tussauds wax museum. I followed the directions the guy at the counter gave me, which was one of the main tourist roads that was full of shops. I ended at a square that had the town hall as well as the museum. I thought it was interesting that the tour started with some history of Amsterdam. I went back to the station waling down a shopping plaza. I’ve noticed how Amsterdam embraces the things that make it unique: the red light district, legal pot, and other things.
The train to Munich had those reclining seats again. A girl returning home to Munich sat next to me. She informed me that today was a bank holiday in Germany, which explains why there have been so many people in some cities. I try to get a picture of all the people I meet on the trains, but she didn’t think of herself as being photogenic.
Friday, May 22
Earlier I moved to an empty seat so that the girl would have room to get out. It was raining hard that morning. I packed a couple of cheap ponchos I bought at a dollar store. I’ve noticed that no one else here had such a thing; they either had umbrellas or rain coats.
I headed down to the river and got a little lost. Across the river was the science museum. It was full of children. When I got to the river I found a park that covered both banks. While walking up a path, I came across a family wearing traditional Bavarian garb; lederhosen, caps, etc. they didn’t seem happy or they were just tired from being in the rain. To the north there was a large lake with several ducks and other water fowls. On the other side of this lake was a beer garden. The place was still wet from the rain. I lunched on some nice looking sausage and got a half liter of the local beer instead of a full liter. I later met someone who made the mistake of getting the full mug.
On my way back to the station I found some gardens, museums, and a shopping plaza. While waiting for my train some young guys were wandering around the station with shirts saying something like “what is Depp?” these shirts also had wings on the back. They were also very rowdy, like they have been drinking. I figure it could either be some sports or college thing; it could even be a bachelor party.
Aboard the train I finally got a couchette. There was an older couple there from Washington State. The lady was named Mary Kay and we had a nice talk.
I never seen the show, but there’s a guy, Rick Steves, who does a great travel show on PBS. I came across his web site while doing research for this trip. While channel surfing, I found a station was doing a pledge drive and was offering a collection of his shows. I got it and tried to use them before I left. He is based in Seattle so Mary Kay was also a fan.
When the conductor came by he took our tickets and passport. This is typical on international overnight trains. This way, you wouldn’t need to be awakened during a border crossing. They usually return them before you arrive at your destination, but when I was talking to another passenger I met in the passageway, you have to find the conductor to get your stuff back. I would not have known that and it could have been a disaster.
Saturday, May 23
I got up early and found the conductor. He was shuffling through his stack of tickets and I was able to spot mine before he did. The train was half an hour late getting into Florence, but that’s OK. I headed southeast from the station towards some churches. I passed by some plazas and other stuff before I arrived at the river. I found an old bridge with shops on each side; they were all jewelry stores from what I seen.
I was wandering around a plaza when I heard some drums in the distance. They sounded like they were coming closer. From around a corner a slow walking parade, I may even call it a procession, with everyone in renaissance period costumes Talk about being in the right place at the right time! Later I was wandering around and then all of a sudden I heard cheering nearby. I turn around in time to see rice being thrown at a wedding couple.
I was photographing the large dome in the distance and I noticed that it looked like people were up there. So I headed towards that cathedral to see if I could also get up there. It had a long line, but I found out that it was really two lines, one for the dome and the other for a tour of the cathedral. It cost eight Euros to climb the over two hundred steps to the top. It was hot work climbing up to the top. I had a great view.
When I got back to the station I took a look at my ticket and noticed that my train was leaving from a different station. I had difficulty finding someone to direct me to that place, but I was able to get aboard a local commuter train that had it as its first stop. I kept my Europass out, but I didn’t see any conductor.
It looks like I had plenty of time because it was leaving an hour later. The schedule may have changed since I got my reservation over a month ago. I met a guy in the compartment who was from Indiana; he just graduated with a degree in biology. Like me he had no idea what to expect in Lausanne. This couchette was different from others; it had poor ventilation so the top bunks were hot. Between the walking, eating only one meal, and all the sweating, I’m sure to be losing weight.
Sunday, May 24
From the station I followed some commuter rail down a steep hill toward the lake. There was a marina with lots to see and do. I followed the shore until I got to Olympic park.
I found out while here that this was the birthplace and headquarters of the modern Olympics. Even though they may have never hosted a game, there were lots of stadiums, playing fields, and other places dedicated to sports. Also for a Swiss town it had several black people around. I guess it is more international because if it’s Olympic background.
I decided to check out the other side of the marina and found a carnival. I figured this was part of a holiday weekend. I made my way through some parks back to the train station.
Lausanne seems to me more like a resort town instead of some sleepy village. This must be where people from Geneva go to get away from the city. I was surprised to find some places accepted Euros as well as the Swiss Franc.
I found out that my ticket was for a “sleeper” which was like half a couchette with only two beds. It also had a washing sink, so I didn’t have to step out to freshen up. There was another guy there and I traded him for the top bunk. We didn’t talk much because it was getting late. I recall on one of my other trips while wandering around different cars I came across some private compartments. I thought it was interesting how they stacked them in a double-decker fashion, sacrificing headroom for privacy.
It was hot like the last train but we had the air condition going full blast so later it felt better.
Monday, May 25
When I dropped off my big bag at a station, even ones with left luggage offices, I never had to wait in line. In Rome, it took half an hour to get to the counter. While in line I met a couple of girls from Newcastle. I had very little idea on where the station is in relation to major sightseeing places, so they were helpful with that.
I headed west hoping to get to the Parthenon, but after wandering some of the streets and passing some ruins I wound up at the coliseum. On the way down, I came across a street where bleachers were being set up. It looked like they were getting ready for a parade. When I arrive at the Coliseum, there was some sort of festival going on around it. I found out later that there was going to be a championship soccer game there. It sounded like they was going to have it inside the Coliseum, but I find that hard to believe.
The Coliseum was great, but I thought the area around it was interesting; it was at the side of a steep hill and further away was the river.
I leisurely made my way back to the station. Did I mention how big it is? It had to be since Rome is a major destination and unlike Paris it only had the one station to accommodate all the trains. Aboard the couchette I met a couple where the husband taught Latin and visited Rome several times. Later another guy named Alex joined us. He does research on nuclear fusion in both Rome and Munich. This compartment was like the earlier ones with great ventilation.
Tuesday, May 26
Got into Innsbruck early. I followed the smaller river, called the Still, to where it empties into the main waterway, the Inn. It took me through some industrial areas. I wandered through some communities and found the funicular rail heading up a mountain, but it was abandon. Further down the river I saw a modern looking suspension bridge. On closer view I was able to see that it did an “S” curve across the water and was used by the tram that replaced the funicular. I found the station and got aboard where it took me to a small town halfway up the mountain. There I took a cable car up to the summit over two thousand meters up. On the car were a couple of guys carrying very large backpacks. Unless they were camping, I don’t see it being very practical. But I did see something hanging out from their packs that looked a lot like parachutes.
We arrived at a building that had a restaurant. I headed outside to slowly approach the top. There was a small heard of goats waiting for us. They seem to know the guys or they came prepared with some treats. After a short while I took a rest on a bench. I saw that the guys stopped at a plateau and unfurled the wing shaped parachutes. After awhile of preparation, the wind caught these gliders and filled them to shape as they leaped across into flight. They were still floating across the mountain face when I departed.
I got to the summit where a cross was placed to mark it. When I headed back down I met a couple of girls with a guy from Bangkok. They never have been up a mountain and were fascinated by the snow and everything else. I noticed that there was a lot of flying insects buzzing around up here. It wasn’t as cold as I thought it would be.
Innsbruck is about as close to a small village as I was going to find in my travels. The valley that it’s tucked into is good for bicycling and the surrounding mountains offer a challenge to extreme bikers.
My train was running about an hour late so it wasn’t going to arrive until almost midnight. Before it arrived, a thunder storm hit the city. I would hate to be on top of one of the mountains with all of the lightning strikes. The couchette was full except for one bed. However, it was able to make up the lost hour and arrive on time.
Wednesday, May 27
When I was in Rome earlier, there was a cyber café inside the station. These types of cafes are all over Europe, so travelers can stay connected even if they didn’t pack a computer. This place had a counter that had tourist information. I picked up a map and saw that they had a good tour that I wanted to try. The girl there said that they didn’t sell tickets tor that tour, but she gave directions on where it started. I rushed to try to get there on time, even took a very crowded bus, but I got lost. I was able to see parts of this tour that I wanted to see by myself: the Tivoli fountain, the Spanish steps and the Parthenon.
I wandered around the forum. I noticed some guys were celebrating Barcelona’s victory in the soccer tournament. When I went to a store to get some provisions, I noticed that the area with the beer and wine was roped off. I guess that with all the victory celebration, they didn’t want a bunch of rowdy fans drunk.
Later I reached into my money belt to get my tickets ready and found that they were gone. They somehow slipped out. I had copies made that I kept in my big bag in the luggage office. I wasn’t sure if I could do the rest of the trip without them.
I walked past the Circus Maximus, which is now just a big field, and took the subway back to the train station.
I met an older couple in the couchette; they live in Italy and were going to visit some family in Paris. A family with a young boy joined us, I don’t think they spoke English, I believe they were heading home.
The conductor came by and I showed him the copy of my ticket. He told me it was no good. Later he came back and I had to pay 33 Euros for a ticket. I was able to put it on my credit card. Later was checked my money belt again and voila! There it was! I don’t know how I missed it.
Thursday, May 28
I thought I didn’t have to worry about my tickets, but I was wrong. The train was almost two hours late so I had only about an hour to go across Paris and get aboard the train to London.
I already went to an ATM and had plenty of Euros, so I went to an exchange counter to get British pounds. I know I wouldn’t get a good rate, but since I only had a few days left it didn’t matter that much.
After that I checked my stuff and found that not only was my ticket to London was lost, but also my Eurail pass and passport. I really freaked out. I wend to the police, but they didn’t offer much help. Meanwhile the train just left.
I figured they had fallen out on the train that I arrived on. I went back to that station and asked at the counter but I don’t think they understood me. They did tell me to come back around six when all the tickets are collected.
I wandered around Paris for hours. I found the Pompidou art center, that building that looks like it has no outside walls and all the pipes and girders are exposed.
I got back before six and decided to get out the electronic translator for the first time and used it to make, word for word, this note:
“Je sur le train de rome cet martin et je pouvior voir parti mon passport sur ca. “
I found a conductor and showed him the note. He then asked for my name and I wrote that down. Within five minutes he retuned with a large brown envelope. We opened it and there was my passport and the Eurail pass. I was so happy I wanted to kiss him on the cheeks like a Frenchman.
The London ticket was still lost, but that left hours ago. It seemed like there was some great unknown force preventing me from going to London, and it succeeded.
I went back to the hotel that I was going to stay the next night to see if I could stay. They told me that they were full that evening. I found a guide book there that had listings for movie theatres in Paris. I found one not too far off.
The theatre was in this shopping center near the Pompidou. It was mostly underground and made of concrete. It did have a swim club with a garden.
I went to see the new X Men movie. It was listed as “VO” which I found out to mean Version Originale, not Voice Over. That means it was subtitled with the original English, not dubbed.
After the movie I wandered around late at night, heading south for a station where the train to Versailles stops. After crossing the river there was a café that was open all night.
Friday, May 29
Got aboard the first commuter train to Versailles. It seems a very nice little town. I was approaching the palace and noticed how hazy everything looked. There was a smell in the air, like a wood burning stove. I looked around and off in the distance th