Buenos Aires's golden age of prosperity gave birth to this luxurious opera house, and it was Argentina's way of announcing to the world that it was on the same cultural plane as Paris, London, or New York. The building is one of the crowning visual delights of Avenida 9 de Julio, though its true entrance faces Plaza Libertad on the opposite side of the building. (The Teatro predates the design of Av. 9 de Julio, explaining this unusual entrance issue.) Over the years, the theater has been graced by the likes of Luciano Pavarotti, Julio Bocca, Maria Callas, Plácido Domingo, Arturo Toscanini, and Igor Stravinsky.
Work began on the building in 1880 and took close to 28 years to complete, largely because the first two architects died during the building process. One of the architects, Victor Meano (who also worked on Congreso), was murdered in a tragedy as dramatic as any on the stage he helped to create. The majestic building finally opened in 1908 and combines a variety of European styles, from the Ionic and Corinthian capitals and stained-glass pieces in the main entrance to the Portuguese marble staircase and French furniture, chandeliers, and vases in the Golden Hall. In the main theater -- which seats 3,000 in orchestra seats, stalls, boxes, and four rises -- an enormous chandelier hangs from the domed ceiling painted by Raúl Soldi in 1966 during a previous renovation.
The theater's acoustics are world-renowned. In addition to hosting visiting performers, the Colón has its own philharmonic orchestra, choir, and ballet company. Opera and symphony seasons last from February to late December. Guided tours, which let you view the main theater, backstage, and costume and underground stage design workshops, take place hourly between 11am and 3pm weekdays and from 9am to noon on Saturday. Call tel. 11/4378-7130 for information on tours.
The theater is undergoing a massive renovation planned to be completed mid-2008 for the 100th anniversary. Some tours still go on, but you must call ahead to make sure. During this time period, the stage is shut, and shows by the production company are being held in alternative, though significantly less beautiful, locations. As with the tours, call ahead.
