This is the land of Creoles, those children and descendants of the original French and Spanish settlers. Their legacy is everywhere -- wrought-iron balconies, tall shutters, courtyards redolent of magnolia, a spicy etouffee perfuming the air. Yes, the French Quarter is uniquely New Orleans, and a treat for us all. Bounded by Canal Street, Esplanade Avenue, Rampart Street and the Mississippi River, the Quarter is especially alluring early in the morning when it has that just-scrubbed look, all the sidewalks having been hosed down to wash away the prior night's revelry. Stroll through Jackson Square with its manicured lawns and shrubbery and its namesake (Andrew) on horseback, majestic St. Louis Cathedral looming overhead. You'll soon catch the scent of beignets from nearby Cafe du Monde. Pop on over for some of these heavenly pillows of dough and a chicory-laced cafe au lait. Then pay a visit to the adjacent French Market, a community farmer's market which was the first outdoor produce market in the U.S. Pick up some hot sauce to take home -- with names like TNT, Spitfire Red and Gib's Bottled Hell, who could resist? Shopping of a different sort can be had along Royal Street, where the antique shops and galleries will vie for your (considerable) dollars. A stop for a juicy muffaletta and a Pimm's Cup at the Napoleon House, the oldest bar in the Quarter, should be in order by now. Spend the rest of the afternoon people-watching and wandering along the colorful streets and alleys (Pirate's Alley and Pere Antoine's Alley are particularly enticing) as you get ready for a long (and enjoyable) night. With over 300 restaurants in the French Quarter, you won't go hungry, and tradition dictates that you must end your meal with some serious music and not-so-serious dancing. By the time it's all said and done, you will need a rest. Start thinking about...