Happy 50th Steven!

Only the staunchest dieter will not be tempted by Portugal's deliciously calorific cakes and pastries. The window displays are real cream-cake affairs, invariably wedged between trendy boutiques catering to fashionable beanpoles. Every region has its specialty sweet treat, generally known as doces conventuais (convent desserts), which usually originates from the respective local convent. And, yes, they really are a touch of heaven. In the Algarve, the Moorish influence is evident in the marzipan and almond biscuits, while farther north in Abrantes the egg pastries known as bolo de anjo (angel cake -- those nuns again) have a melt-in-the-mouth fluffy topping. If you are seeking true sublimity, however, bite into a warm pasties de nata, straight from the oven. These gorgeous custard tarts are made with flaky light pastry, creamy egg custard, and sprinkled cinnamon.

Few people understand the bounty of the sea more than the Portuguese. One singularly appetizing delicacy called bacalhau (dried, salted cod) appears on the menu at virtually every restaurant, though it is definitely an acquired taste. Shop fronts are chockablock with the stuff: think fossilized white strips of leather and you will be on the right track. There are reputedly 365 ways of preparing this curious delicacy, ranging from roasted with onions and potatoes to fish pie. The Portuguese love affair with seafood encompasses just about everything that swims in the sea, including limpets (normally braised with garlic). In Lisbon there is an entire street -- Rua dos Bacalhaus (Codfish Street) -- dedicated to the lowly cod. Grilled sardines are prevalent as well, but don't expect the tinned variety you might be accustomed to. The Portuguese prefer to serve them whole, head and all.

A sightseeing tour introduces the immense 15th century cathedral, burial place of Christopher Columbus, the Alcazar and the slender Giralda Tower. Tour the Santa Cruz Quarter, with its flower-decked wrought iron balconies, before taking time to relax or explore on your own. Consider visiting Maria Luisa park with its archeological museum. (BB)

Drive along the Guadalquivir valley to the perfectly preserved Moorish city of Cordoba. See the famous 2000-year-old bridge before a guided visit to the magnificent Mezquita, an 8th century mosque with a Christian church built inside it. Cross the Sierra Morena mountains and the plains of La Mancha to Madrid. Tonight, you and your fellow travelers are offered a choice of restaurants for your dining pleasure. (BB,DA)

Next to paintings, Madrid's tapas may be the city's most creative and irresistible attraction. Originally a lid used to tapar (cover or close) a glass of wine, a tapa is a kind of hors d'oeuvre that often comes free with a drink. (The term supposedly came from pieces of ham or cheese laid across glasses of wine -- to keep flies out and to keep stagecoach drivers sober.) The history of tapas goes back to the 781-year (7th- to 15th-century) Moorish presence on the Iberian Peninsula. The Moors brought with them exotic ingredients, such as saffron, almonds, and peppers. They introduced sweets and pastries, and created refreshingly cold almond- and vegetable-based soups, still popular today. The Moorish taste for small and varied delicacies has in fact become Spain's best-known culinary innovation.

Often miniature versions of classic Spanish dishes, tapas (which may be served as individual servings, called pinchos or tapas, or in raciones, which usually feed a few) allow you to sample different kinds of food and wine with minimal alcohol poisoning, especially on a tapeo, the Spanish version of a pub crawl: you walk off your wine and tapas as you move from bar to bar. Tapas have now evolved into a realm of their own, with cooks producing complicated dishes that can stand alongside a good restaurant's main dishes. Most restaurants have tapas bars where you can test the food without committing to a sit-down meal.

Here are a few standard tapas to look for: croquetas (bechamel and usually chicken or ham with a bread-crumb crust and deep fried), tortilla de patata (Spanish potato omelet), chorizo (hard pork sausage), gambas (shrimp grilled or cooked in parsley, oil, and garlic), patatas bravas (potatoes in spicy sauce), and boquerones en vinagre (fresh anchovies marinated in salt and vinegar). The best place to start a tapas tour is in and around Plaza Santa Ana or Cava Baja in the La Latina neighborhood.

A local guide introduces you to the Gothic Quarter where, among the narrow streets, you visit the ancient Cathedral. In complete contrast, drive out to the Eixample District to see some of Gaudi’s extraordinary architecture, including the unfinished Sagrada Familia Cathedral. In the afternoon, stroll along the leafy Ramblas with its market stalls and buskers, or take an optional excursion to the ancient Monastery of Montserrat, dedicated to the ‘Black Madonna.’ (BB)