Tour of New Zealand

Haere Mai - Welcome!

Prepare yourself to be amazed this is the trip of a lifetime.

My itinerary was as follows:

After a manageable 12 hour flight I landed in Singapore and ran to the pool… yes you heard right. Singapore airport has a swimming pool in Terminal 1… amazing anh?

So there was I, laying in a recliner chair, the sun on my face and a grin… life is beautiful.

The afternoon flew by and it was time to board the second leg of my journey, Singapore – Christchurch . After an hours sleep and 3 films later I landed in Kiwi Land... The sun was shining, I smilled but I had another flight to catch first:

Christchurch – Sydney

I went to visit my friend and Sydney received me with thunder and rain, but it was 30º C so I did not complain.

Arriving in Sydney was like arriving home, I think I am under a spell when in Australia. My girlfriend took me to an 80min Bikram Yoga class as I arrived and I loved it, did not do all the exercises but almost all of them. Needless to say I slept like a baby…

The next day I went to see a private fashion show where my friend was modeling. The clothes were very pretty and the philosophy behind the brand appealed to me. The designer and owner of Malone, was in Hoi An in Vietnam and the idea started there. I thought it was a very pleasant coincidence, as seen that I had been there too. If you are interested visit www.malonefashion.com

I managed to convince my friend to come with me to Fraser Island. She did not need much convincing. So we flew to Hervey Bay and headed straight to the beach… what an amazing sleepy place. The town is very small but people, like in many other places, are amazingly friendly. The man at the motel did his best to find us the best tours and spent the whole day trying to no avail to get us a car. We had lunch at Soul Sá, the owners have just started in the restaurant business and were ever so kind, the Chef cooked us Chili Prawns with Spaghetti and Soulmama Salad… yami… amazing!! 

We spent the afternoon lazing in the beach until early evening. The water was amazingly warm, I can guess around 30 to 32 degrees... I swear! We changed and hit town but the only action we saw was at the Beach Hotel and we sat down to get disappointed with the food and service.

Car rental in Hervey Bay was per person not per car... which we though was very strange. So after ascertaining that we could not get any car in Hervey Bay we decided to go for a fly/drive to Fraser Island. It was even cheaper than renting a car. We used Air Fraser Island and we paid $425 for both os us - fligh and 4x4 included. We flew there on a small plane similar to a Cessna (but Australian made), landed on the beach and there a 4x4 awaited us. here we had to leave a deposit with the office but it is refunded at the end of the day when you return the car.

We drove first to Lake Mackenzie. The 1 hour drive was partly done on the beach and partly through sand tracks, a great challenge. I loved it of course. My friend was enjoying being driven around so much that she did not drive, despite me insisting on it. After a swim in Lake Mackenzie we drove back to the beach and went north to the ship wreck, the Pinnacles and Eli Creek. The plane waited for us at 3.45 and we did not have time to see anything else on the island. Needless to say that the experience was unforgettable.

We went back to Soul Sá for more amazing food. But all that is precious comes to an end and the following morning we had our last meal - Brunch - at guess where... the Soul Sá. We were not going to even try to find another place. We flew back to Sydney, where I left my friend and I got on another plane. This time to Auckland, in order to start my Kiwi adventure. 

Sydney - Auckland

I rented a car with Jucy and drove around the city. However I did not feel like staying in the city one night so drove straight to the Coromandel Peninsula. I took the HW1 direction Manukau City and then followed signs to Coromandel Peninsula through HW25. The landscape is absolutely lovely therefore I decided to stay overnight in Thames, so I could see the landscape up the coast the following day. Thames is very small and, dare I say it, empty after 7pm. I stayed at the Brynies Hotel, which is also a pub. Single rooms w/ensuite cost $50. For dinner I chose the Goldmine Café because they have free internet access. A rarity in NZ, as most hotspots are paid for.

So in the morning of the 10th I started my drive up the coast from Thames to Coromandel Town, via Tapu. What a gorgeous road and landscape. I knew this road would have fantastic views therefore chose to drive up the coast during the day to fully appreciate its beauty. I had to stop over and over again to appreciate and be amazed at the beauty surrounding me. The greens are magical, hypnotizing… I never seen so many shades of green… The weather was mainly grey but warm enough to show off my 2 day tan (from Hervey Bay) in a lovely summer dress… and it made it all the more pleasant to get out of the car at every corner and bay and go for a walk and take some pics.

At Coromandel Town I drove across the peninsula to Whitianga. Here a passenger only ferry crosses over to Cooks Beach, but unfortunately for me I was driving and therefore had to drive all the way around. At Whenuakite I drove to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water Beach. Hot water beach is a lovely cove, well two coves actually, separated by a cliff wall where if you dig a hole in the sand you can sit in a pool of really hot water. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t great and the tide was up do no space to do it. Don’t worry about not having a spade, you can rent one at the local shop. Across from the car park there is an art gallery, which has amazing stuff produced by a local artist.

Tairua and Whangamata are two other perfect little towns but pressed for time I drove directly down to Waihi beach. What a lovely seaside resort. After lunch I drove straight back to Auckland. I stayed at City Central Hotel. Great choice and value for money. Single rooms w/ensuite are $85, internet access is paid for by the hour or 24h voucher for $20. Car park is just around the corner at the same entrance of the Crowne Plaza Hotel. If you park after 6pm and take your car out before 10am you pay only $6 overnight charge, arrange this with the hotel. If you arrive late in the afternoon and just want dinner and rest I recommend the steak at the almost next door Tony's.

The next day off I went up north to the Bay of Islands and another series of WoW’s... I could not stop saying it… This country is truly amazing, the sheer beauty of this landscape really transcends me. I took the whole day driving up 400km but it was worth it because I just could not stand the thought of not having a peep at another gorgeous bay or beach. And to make it even more special, there was nobody at these beaches but me.

I took the motorway direction of Helensville, for obvious reasons (my name...). The motorway exits are very well signposted and after coffee in Helensville I continued north on HW16 towards Te Hana, Brynderwyn, Waipu, Hikurangi, where I saw a signpost for Helena Bay. I knew I just had to stop. The gallery and coffee shop at Helena Bay Hill is full of gorgeous art, jewelry and crafts and in the coffee shop terrace you have a breathtaking view, really to die for.

I continued on the scenic route, which contours the coast up and down the hills towards Russell, but did not continue to Russell instead took the ferry to Opua and the Bay of Islands. On arrival at Pahia I had my first glimpse of the Bay of Islands amidst the trees and I knew, this was a magical place. WOW! With big letters indeed. This is a place that deserves a week, 2 weeks, even 3 weeks. The peace, the spiritual wellbeing, the warm people, good food and great trips makes Pahia a lovely destination. I stayed 4 full days and wished I had an extra week.

The first night I was recommended 2 restaurants Café 6 and Peppercorn. I opted for the first one and a lovely German man Michael, greeted me with the warmest smile ever. His wife was a delightful host too. I had what she recommended - tuna and monk fish on a seabed of vegetables and rice - and did not regret it. Delicious!

That evening I watched the Culture North Night Show ($55 with pick up included). The show describes in theatre form the arrival of the first Maoris, the story of New Zealand and about the Treaty of Waitangi.

On my way back from the show I went in the restaurant and Michael invited me to the table where he sat with 5 German friends and I did have an extra glass of wine with them… oh what a laugh we had. Some places you just feel very welcome and this place was exceptional, which meant I went everyday for breakfast but not for dinner as I really wanted to try the other restaurants.

The next day I took the ferry to Russell - what a quaint little port village. Then in the afternoon I took a boat tour of the Hole in the Rock. The sea was ever so rough, my oh my... After resting a bit I managed to go out and had dinner at Stonegrill - steak on a hot stone.

The following morning I drove to Kerikeri a delightfull shopping paradise, where I managed to find a few bargains. If you come here do stop at the Stone Store and Mission House. The Stone house underwent major conservation work in 1990 and now retains its early character. The Mission House received a few changes and the latest in 1970 meant that the house was returned fairly close to what it looked like in 1843, and what a lovely step back in time this tour is. I had lovely scallops for dinner at the Peppercorn.

The drive to Mangonui is pleasant and very pretty, with a few stops at Whangaroa and another bay I managed to get to Mangonui - a lovely place by the seafront - just in time for lunch. A group of musicians were playing in the restaurant terrace and I could not have chosen a better place to eat.

Sadly it was time to leave the Bay of Islands. Unfortunately I could not fit in Cape Reinga but the drive seemed too long to do in one day. So I had my last breakfast at Café 6, said goodbye to my 'friends' and started my drive back to Auckland. I stopped to take photos of the famous toilets in Kawakawa before continuing to Whangarei, Waipu, Te Hana, Orewa and finally Auckland for one night. I headed to the same hotel, which was central and cheap. I had dinner at the local chinese, great choice.

The following morning I headed down south to Rotorua - the smelly city.

Smelly indeed... I stayed at Sudima Hotel (www.sudimahotels.com) and the stench was impossible... but I had to endure it 2 more days... This region has a large geothermic area and geysers and hot springs abound in the region.

That evening I booked myself into a traditional Maori dinner at Maitai Village (www.mitai.co.nz) . The tour includes traditional dinner cooked in earth ovens, a show about the arrival of maoris in NZ, warriors paddling a waka - ancient war canoe and an explanation of their Ta Moko tattoo facial art.

Dinner included chicken, some red meat which they said it was lamb but unless lambs here are very skinny this was a kiwi not lamb. But I reckon they say lamb so people won’t go yak… I liked it. The sweet potatoes and the kiwi were the best. There were salads and roasted potatoes as well as some stuffing and the evening ended with a tour of the village in the dark to spot the glow worms.

The next day I spent the morning at the Polynesian Spa (www.polynesianspa.co.nz) just around the corner. The Spa includes several pools and rock pools. I opted for the 4rock pools where the water temperature ranges from 36 to 42 degrees. What a relaxing time!! In the afternoon I drove to Wakatane in the Bay of Plenty coast. The weather was a bit rainy so I did just do the driving around the seafront and back to Rotorua. At night my feast was from the middle east and I ate at a Turkish restaurant. I had the dips, and a mixed grill… I was stuffed, only space for an apple tea.

The following day was cloudy as well and I decided to drive to Napier. I was curious to see the art deco buildings. I woke up early and drove to Wai-o-Tapu (Sacred Waters)Thermal Wonderland (www.geyserland.co.nz). I first drove to the location where Lady Knox Geyser erupts every day at 10.15am. I was slightly disappointed by the fact that it is a provoked eruption. Some soap is thrown into the geyser's mouth and 8-10 min later the geyser erupts. After that I walked through the trail to all the colourful volcanic craters and pools, including the champagne pool, artists palette and devil's pool.

Huka Falls was next but when you’ve been to Niagara and Iguaçu falls, poor Huka Falls rate very low as far falls go… but it must be cool coming down the rapids in a jet boat. Shame its raining miserably. So instead I went to Huka Prawn Farm Park (www.prawnpark.co.nz) a very funny place where you can have a go at catching some prawns for your lunch or to take away. I went there to eat them, and they were delicious… much better than the Brazilian ones in fact. The taste is sweet and very mild, really yami…

Lake Taupo must be nice in summer or in the sun so I hoped that on my way back from Napier the weather would be better.

I arrived in Napier at around 5pm and after booking into a hotel I walked through the centre. I had dinner at the Brasserie 311, opted for the fish dish and yet again enjoyed the nouvelle cuisine I got so accostumed in NZ. To end a perfect meal I asked for desert and a 20 Year Port Wine...  

After breakfast I took some pictures and drove up to Lake Taupo, the wether was glorious, what a difference from the previous day driving down, when it was pouring down as if there was no tomorrow. This time I was able to appreciate the lovely scenery and yet again be mesmerised by the greenery around. I was able to see Lake Taupo in all its glory. I sat outside and had a lovely juice and sandwich and then had to spend an hour or so inside in an internet café to book some flights.

At around 5pm I drove up to Waitomo on a secondary road heading onto HW32 to then turn left to HW30. I stayed overnight at The Panoram Hotel in Te Kuiti. Lovely views and just close enough to drive to the caves in the morning. Waitomo Caves (www.waitomocaves.co.nz) consist of 3 very different caves - the Glowworm Caves, Ruakuri Caves and Aranui Caves. I started with Ruakuri Caves at 9am – the biggest and most impressive. Here you can also do water rafting down the Black Labyrinth, or subterranean rivers and abseil down the depths of this amazing cave. Unfortunately it takes 5 hours and NZ$250 to do both and on my own it wasn’t much fun… so maybe next time…

Then it was time to visit the world famous Glow Worm Cave, where after a quick tour of the cave the group was taken to 2 boats and showed the worms. Fancy paying $35 to see worm’s poo… never mind... an experience I will never forget… (lol) and finally Aranui Cave, which hosts a 5 metre stalactite. Pretty amazing. It is perfectably feasible in one morning and like that I had the whole afternoon to get back to Auckland, leisurely on the state road 22. At times I was the only car on the road and it was awsome to just enjoy the beautiful nature at my own pace, stopping anytime I wanted.

For those who live in England, this country is like the Lake District extended all over the country. For those who are not familiar with the Lake District I can assure you this is a painters' paradise, the views are breathtaking.

Another night in Auckland at my favourite hotel - City Central Hotel - and in the morning after taking the car back to the rent a car company I was taken to the airport.

Auckland - Wellington

The flight was just slightly delayed but one of the cabin crew was so funny it kind of lifted everyone’s spirits. We were just taxying - getting to the runway - and because it was taking a long time he announced “no, we are not driving to Wellington, we are flying, please just bare with us while we take the longest runway...”, then he said something else about his colleague… oh yeh… we were still waiting and he said “well while we wait for taking off Sandra here is going to sing us a song… no she is not, just bare with us while we get a green light to take off.” And he said something else… yes about smoking… “this is a no smoking plane, if you feel like one please just step outside…”  He was great at getting us all happy shame about the native next to me snoring…

I headed for my accommodation, The Hotel, on Willis Street, very central within walking district of Cuba and Lambton quarters. I had wireless internet access in the room and thought that at $85/night it was great value for money. 15 minutes later I was walking to the centre, had my nails done and came back to the hotel. After a shower and change I headed to the Matterhorn. I had read that some of the crew from the Lord of the Rings had eaten here, and the Jetstar inflight magazine also advertised the restaurant as one of the best in town. I was not disappointed, the food recommended was excellent, the desert even better. The couple in the next table started a conversation with me and I was rather pleased to have someone to talk to. The lady was from Sydney and the husband from England but lived in Sydney since he was a child, until they both decided to move to Wellington. Which made me think that we are all looking to live somewhere else rather than the place we are at the moment.

Dinner dragged over a Port wine and conversation about immigration. When I finally decided to leave I was still not in the mood to go back to the hotel. Ernesto, the bar in the next corner, had a live band playing and I entered for a last coffee.

Wellington was proving to be quite a quaint vibrant little city. The next morning I hurried to choose a cafe nearby to have breakfast. Then I walked to the cable car, paid for one way only as I decided to walk down. The views are amazing and the track down easy to follow. I walked to Queen wharf and continued along the waterfront past the Te Papa Museum and made my stop at the beach in Orient Bay.

What a lovely walk, the weather was mild, no wind that day, bearing in mind Wellington is famous for being quite windy, so I just sad down in one of the benches and enjoyed watching kids playing, teenagers rollerskating, families walking up and down. I decided to walk back to the museum. I am not a museum person but I liked Te Papa Museum, there were quite a few interesting facts about global warming and its effects in New Zealand in particular. A wooden house simulating a earthquake, maori houses and artifacts, etc. Definitely a place to take kids as there is do much to do and see, real like animals, activities corner, etc.

Still to early to go back to the hotel and getting ready for dinner I decided to take a taxi to Mount Victoria and enjoy even more lush views of the city. Now I definitively agreed with my first impression, Wellington looks like Sydney, in the sense that it has the hills, the waterfront life style, the beach and is quite modern. I liked it! I liked it alot...

On my way down from Mount Victoria I sat down on a bench looking over the harbour and city down below. The sun was shining, no wind and I felt on top of the world. What a relaxing spot... I finally made all the way down to the beach and had a gorgeous ice cream at a little ice cream shop at the seafront.

I walked back to the city centre and sat down at a splanade with a glass of wine. I was ever so pleased with this trip.  I was extremelly pleased to find a city so different from Auckland. Wellington reminded me of Sydney, a baby Sydney (lol), with the hills, parks, beach, wharf, marina... Ah... I was ever so pleased.

That evening I ate at Ernesto's and the food was also gorgeous. The prawns were exceptionally good and for desert I had rice pudding... my favourite.

The next morning I had a leisurely walk and had breakfast at a bagel shop down on Willis Street before heading down to the airport - to spend Christmas in Brisbane.