Introduction to Kalambaka, Greece Kalambáka

KALAMBÁKA has no particular allure, save for its position near the rocks. The town was burned by the Germans during World War II and very few pre-war buildings remain, among them the Mitrópolis or old cathedral. This, dedicated to the Kímisis tís Theotókou ("Dormition of the Virgin"; daily 8am–1pm & 4–8pm; €1.20), stands a couple of streets above its modern successor, at the top end of the town. It was founded in the sixth century on the site of a temple to Apollo and incorporates various classical drums and fragments in its erratically designed walls. The interior is overarched by a unique, coffered-wood ceiling and dominated, equally unusually for a Greek church, by a great double marble pulpit in the central aisle, itself staked out by marble columns. The thirteenth- and fourteenth-century Byzantine frescoes are best preserved in the narthex, stressing the miracles of Christ's ministry (Healing the Paralytic, The Storm on Galilee, Raising Lazarus, The Wedding at Cana), though there's also a vivid portrayal of Hell on the south wall.

Arriving by bus or train in season, you're likely to be offered a room by waiting proprietors. Unfortunately, not all of them are reputable – the Totis Rooms in particular have generated reader complaints – so preferably hunt for accommodation independently, to avoid being cheated. This should not be difficult, as there are numerous signs on the road into town from the bus station and plenty of rather undistinguished hotels, most of them prone to road noise, with minimal views or character and above-average rates, reflecting the commercialization of the Metéora. The best budget choice is the welcoming Hotel Meteora (tel 04320/22 367, fax 75 550; €24–33) at Ploutárhou 13, a quiet side-street up to the right as you leave Kalambáka for Kastráki, at the foot of the extraordinary rocks. This has a wide variety of room formats, air-con/heating, and adequate parking; breakfasts are enhanced with home-made cakes and cheese, while proprietors Nikos and Kostas Gekas are a fount of information on the area, and have mountain bikes for rent. Also in the upper, most "villagey" part of town, some 700m up from the main square, near the Mitrópolis and start/end of the trail to Ayías Triádhos at Kanári 21, are the Koka Roka Rooms (tel 04320/24 554, kokaroka@yahoo.com; €24–33), with rooms both en suite and not, and internet facilities. It's a classic backpackers' hangout, if a fairly salubrious one, though service at the ground-floor grill (cheap and cheerful meals from €6.50) is decidedly leisurely. If they're full – they've only a few rooms – the closest comparable option is Alsos House just a few steps downhill at Kanári 5 (tel 04320/24 097 or 097/2544825; up to €24–33); the cheaper ground-floor rooms are gloomy but en suite, with a shared fridge – top-floor units are definitely preferable.

Mid-range options include the en-suite Odyssion (tel 04320/22 320, fax 75 307; €34–42) on the main through road at the Kastráki end of things; it's a bit of a 1960s barracks, though it has adequate parking, and the balconied rooms are fair-sized. The Helvetia more or less opposite (tel 04320/23 041, fax 25 241; €43–58) also has parking facilities, but it's a bit closer to the road and the somewhat smaller rooms are of the same grim vintage.

As with hotels, so with restaurants: lots of mediocre ones, used to a quick turnover of a captive audience. The Panellinion, with fountainside seating on the upper of two platías, is tolerable, and as a break from the carnivorous tastes of the deep mainland, the Kreperi Lotos at Dhimoulá 1, does both savoury and sweet crepes.

Information by Rough Guides

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