Introduction to Kaprun, 5

Sprawling across the plain where the Kapruner Ache joins the Salzach, KAPRUN, 5km southwest of Zell, is a modern resort village serving the ski slopes of the Maiskogel and the Kitzsteinhorn to the south. Predominantly a winter resort, it's an inoffensive if soulless place at any other time of the year, and anyone thinking of visiting the Kitzsteinhorn in summer (whether for the glacier skiing or the views) would probably do better to use Zell am See as a base. There's an efficient tourist office in Kaprun village centre (tel 06547/86430) organizing private room rental (summer: öS400–600/€29.07–43.60, winter: öS600–800/€43.60–58.14). At the south end of the village at Kaprun 448, an HI youth hostel (tel 06547/8507) offers dorm beds, and there's a campsite beside the Kapruner Ache, which flows along the western side of the village. Kaprun is only small and places to eat and drink are central and fairly easy to find: the Dorfstadl serves good Austrian and regional food in an old stable rustically furnished and decked with animal skins, while Hielberger's Stadl is a pub-like place with substantial snacks and good main meals. Charly's, a popular Brit-pub, and the Baum Bar, a more European-style drinking venue built around a tree, are the places to go if you need a drink.

Buses from Zell am See pass through Kaprun and then climb northwards for 5km to the station of the Kitzsteinhornbahn gondola, which serves the year-round skiing slopes below the Kitzsteinhorn. This 3203-metre mountain is the northernmost outpost of the Glocknergruppe, a cluster of high-altitude peaks that culminate with the 3798m Grossglockner (Austria's highest) 10km due south. The funicular railway which used to ascend the lower slopes of the Kitzsteinhorn, passing through a steep 4km-long tunnel on the way, was the pride and joy of the local tourist industry until November 2000, when it caught fire upon entering the tunnel, causing the deaths of 155 passengers – most of whom were on their way up the mountain to attend a snowboard festival intended to mark the beginning of the winter season. It remains uncertain whether the funicular will ever see service again. In the meantime the gondola remains the only way up. This ascends to the Häuslalm at the bottom of the ski area, from where a chairlift takes over to the Alpincenter café-restaurant. The final stage is undertaken by cable car, which finishes up at the 3029m Gipfelstation right beneath the conical summit of the Horn. There's an extensive panorama of neighbouring mountains, with the Hohe Tauern's second highest peak, the 3674-metre Grossvenediger, to the west, and (in clear conditions) unparalleled views northwest across the ridge of the Kitzbühler Alpen towards the Kaisergebirge 50km distant. Bear in mind that even in midsummer the summit can be icy underfoot and extremely cold – remember to take the appropriate clothing.

A road continues beyond the Gletscherbahn station towards two reservoirs, the Wasserfallboden and the Mooserboden, which shelter on the eastern flanks of the Kitzsteinhorn. Leading into an area of eerily desolate beauty, the route promises fine views down the valley at every turn. The full journey can only be made by public transport: the Kesselfall Alpenhaus, 2km above the Gletscherbahn station, is the end of the line for private cars. From Kesselfall, a first bus takes you to the Lärchwand, where a funicular climbs up from the valley floor to be met by a second bus, which dives through tunnels on the western side of the Wasserfallboden before reaching the dam at the northern end of the Mooserboden. Here you'll find a restaurant, trails leading off into the wilderness, and a chance to gaze at snow-clad peaks that crowd in on all sides. Weather permitting, you should also be able to pick out the ridge of the Salzburger Kalkalpen 40km to the northeast.

Information by Rough Guides

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