Introduction to St. Jean Port Joli, QC St-Jean-Port-Joli

The first settlement of any note along Hwy 132, some 80km east of Lévis, is ST-JEAN-PORT-JOLI, where the long main street accommodates the galleries of the region's most popular woodcarvers. A traditional Québécois folk art, woodcarving flourished in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, but had almost expired by the 1930s, when the Bourgault brothers established their workshop here. Initially, religious statuary was their main source of income, but their folksy style and francophile themes were adopted and popularized by the nationalists in the 1960s.

Along the main road, on the west side of the village, the ugly Musée des Anciens Canadiens, 332 ave de Gaspé ouest (May–June & Sept–Oct daily 9am–5.30pm; July & Aug 8.30am–9pm; $4), has an interesting collection of woodcarvings cut in white pine and walnut, many of which are the work of the Bourgaults. The most impressive piece is the giant Les Patriotes, a tribute to the Québécois rebels of 1837 who, under the leadership of Louis-Joseph Papineau, tried to drive out the British. The studied romance of the woodcarving bears little relation to the actual rebellion, though, which was badly organized and easily suppressed. A few doors down the same road at no. 322, the Maison Médard-Bourgault (late June to early Sept 10am–6pm; $2) concentrates on the life and work of Médard Bourgault. He was the most talented of the brothers – he even carved the walls and furniture. The delicate and ornate interior of the village church, Église St-Jean Baptiste at no. 2, celebrates the work of an earlier generation of Québécois woodcarvers from the 1770s, the Baillairgé brothers. Any of the dozen or so galleries along the main road sell woodcarvings; the shop adjoining the museum is one of the best. And at nearby no. 377, housed in an octagonal barn, the Centre d'Art Animalier Faunart (daily: May & June, Sept & Oct 9am–6pm; July & Aug 9am–9pm; $4) displays artworks inspired by nature and animals – a good intro to Canadian wildlife, though the taxidermy exhibits might make some stomachs churn.

There are some pleasant B&Bs, of which La Maison de L'Ermitage, 56 rue de l'Ermitage (tel 598-7553; $60–80), has a lovely turreted, red-and-white roof – if you're feeling particularly flush you can stay in one of the turrets ($80–100). Two campsites, Au Bonnet Rouge, 762 Hwy 132 est (tel 598-3088; $16.50; May–Oct) and De La Demi-Lieue, farther down the road at no. 589 (tel 598-6108 or 1-800/463-9558; $15; May–Oct), are cheaper options. Restaurant-wise, check out Café Bistro OK, 254 rue du Quai for inexpensive burgers, fries, and fine-crust pizza or Café la Coureuse des Greves, 300 Hwy 204, for regional gastronomy and good breakfasts served on a lushly flowered outdoor terrace. For more upscale regional dining with views of the river, try the Auberge du Faubourg, 280 Hwy 132 ouest.

Information by Rough Guides

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