Introduction to Ste Agathe des Monts, QC Ste-Agathe-des-Monts

Nearby, on the shores of Lac des Sables, is STE-AGATHE-DES-MONTS, a luxurious resort since the 1850s and the largest town in the Laurentians. Situated 97km from Montréal and almost entirely quashed by commercialism, it's a good base for exploring the less developed towns and the wildlife reserves further north; there is little to do here.

Ste-Agathe is expensive. The cheapest accommodation is the dull Motel St-Moritz, 1580 rue Principale (tel 819/326-3444 or 1-800/567-6752, www.polyinter.com/st-moritz; $40–60). Of the three B&Bs, only Au Nid d'Hirondelles, 1235 des Hirondelles (tel 819/326-5413 or 1-888/826-5413; www.nidhirondelles.qc.ca; $60–80) verges on affordable, and all rooms come with private bath. The pricier Auberge de la Tour-du-Lac, 173 chemin Tour du Lac (tel 819/326-4202 or 1-800/622-1735, www.delatour.qc.ca; $80–100), is one of the town's most beautiful historic homes with its pointed roof and wrapround veranda. The nearest campsite is Parc des Campeurs (tel 819/324-0482 or 1-800/561-7360; $24), 15km from town (follow signs for "Camping Ste Agathe" and take exit 53 off Hwy 15), an enormous place with a beach on Lac des Sables.

Most of Ste-Agathe's restaurants and bars are on the lakefront, the most attractive part of town: Del Popolo, at 1 Principale est, serves Italian, and Chez Girard, at 18 Principale ouest, has reasonably priced, delicious French cuisine. Sauvagine, 1592 Hwy 329 nord (tel 1-800/787-7172), is a chapel converted into a French restaurant with rooms upstairs ($60–80/$80–100). For information, go to 24 rue St-Paul est (late June to early Sept daily 9am–8pm; early Sept to late June 9am–5pm); the bus stops across the street.

Information by Rough Guides

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