Introduction to Lamu, LS Lamu town

Perhaps surprisingly for so laid-back a corner of Kenya, there's no shortage of things to do in Lamu. The town itself is unendingly fascinating to stroll through, with few monuments but hundreds of ancient houses, arresting street scenes and cool corners to sit and rest. And the museum outshines all others in Kenya bar the National Museum in Nairobi.

Initially confusing, Lamu is not the random clutter of houses and alleys it appears. Very few towns in sub-Saharan Africa have kept their original town plan so intact (Timbuktu in West Africa is another), and Lamu's history is sufficiently documented, and its architecture well enough preserved, to give you a good idea of how the town developed. The main division is between the waterfront buildings and the town behind, separated by Usita wa Mui, now Harambee Avenue (actually a narrow alley for the most part). Until around 1830, this was the waterfront, but the pile of accumulated rubbish in the harbour had become large enough by the time the fort was finished to consider reclaiming it; gradually, those who could afford to, built on it. The fort lost its pre-eminent position and Lamu, from the sea, took on a different aspect, which included Indian styles such as arches, verandahs and shuttered windows.

Behind the waterfront, the old town retained a second division between Mkomani district, to the north of the fort, and Langoni to the south. These locations are important as they distinguish the town's long-established quarter (Mkomani) from the still-expanding district (Langoni) where, traditionally, newcomers have built their houses of mud and thatch rather than stone or modern materials. This north–south division is found in most Swahili towns and reflects the importance of Mecca, which is due north.

Lamu is divided further into over forty mitaa or "wards", corresponding to blocks. The names of these suggest a great deal about how the town once looked and they're all listed in Lamu Town: A Guide by James Allen (out of print; copies in Lamu Fort Library). Kinooni ward ("whetstone corner") boasts to this day a heavy block of stone on the corner for sharpening swords, reputedly imported from Oman. And Utakuni ward ("main market") still has a row of shops, even though most of this north side of town is now purely residential.

It is difficult to construct a guided tour of Lamu – serendipity comes to everyone here, and in any event, you're better off exploring in snatches, wandering around whenever you have a spare hour or two – but the following things are worth pursuing whenever you lack the energy for the beach.

Information by Rough Guides

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