Once was enough
There is the charm of the old Getty museum in Malibu and then there is the new Getty museum… The “new” experience begins with having to make a parking reservation and the irony of the news that you get to pay fifteen dollars for your “free” experience of visiting the Getty. You can’t just show up! You can’t just go there today on a lark. You must “plan” your Getty experience.
My first glimpse of the new Getty itself was disconcerting. As we drove up the freeway from LA, looking upward to the starkly bald and un-enchanting hills ahead, my eyes were greeted by what seemed certain to be warehouse, a very imposing warehouse. As we got closer we could see that it was a very fine warehouse indeed, of what seemed to be imitation bleached stone. Realizing that the warehouse was, in fact, probably the Getty Museum, and that the stone might be real, I was tempted to think it fortress-like, though it was so barren and box-like that my imagination failed to make the leap.
The parking entrance is just inches off the freeway and it is perfectly organized. Perfectly! John Paul would be extremely proud of the parking experience. Immerging from the garage, after about a ten minute wait, one is trammed up to the warehouse. This heightens the sense of anticipation. Exiting the tram there is an immediate sense of intimacy with several hundred other visitors. Perhaps several thousand, I’m not sure. Anyway, I felt like I should be looking for Space Mountain.
Retreating to the gardens, the view of Los Angeles was impressive. Here is a view worth literally hundreds of millions of dollars. Clearly much better looking down than looking up. No joke! So what did the marvelously high-paid architects do with this spectacular hundred-million-dollar piece of real estate? They dug a hole, a huge grand daring bowl, at the very peak of and very edge of the mountain. Therein they built a “garden”. From that garden you have a perfect view, not of Los Angeles, but of the sky and some of the warehouse. From that bowl garden you would never know Los Angeles existed.
In addition to the exhibition space there are a surprising number of very impressive buildings for administration. Oh, I almost forgot. There are wonderful paintings in the Getty painting warehouse-amusement park. I think I saw a Cezanne there. I’m not sure. Somehow I wasn’t in the mood. But the parking is perfectly organized.