Criccieth, United Kingdom

When sea-bathing became the Victorian fashion, English families descended on the sweeping sand and shingle beach at CRICCIETH, a quiet, amiable resort dominated by the battle-worn remains of Criccieth Castle (daily: April, May & Oct 10am–5pm, June– Sept 10am–6pm, £2.90; Nov to mid-March Fri & Sat 9.30am–4pm, Sun 11am–4pm, free; Web: www.cadw.wales.gov.uk ), with its twin-towered gatehouse. Started by Llywelyn ap Iorwerth in 1230, it was strengthened by Edward I around 1283, and razed by Owain Glyndŵr in 1404, leaving little besides a plan of broken walls. It's a great spot to sit and look over Cardigan Bay to Harlech, but leave time for the ticket office, where there's a workaday exhibition on Welsh castles and a wonderful animated cartoon about twelfth-century Wales.

Buses and trains along the Cambrian coastline stop a couple of hundred yards west of Y Maes, the open square at the centre of Criccieth. Accommodation is plentiful, with the Moelwyn, 27–29 Mona Terrace (Tel:01766/522500, emoelwyn@aol.com; Price: £50; March– Nov), a smart choice with great sea views. For something cheaper head for Craig-y-Môr, West Parade (Tel:01766/522830; Price: £40; March– Oct), a guesthouse with well-appointed rooms, some with fine sea views; or Tyddyn Morthwyl Farm and Caravan Park, a mile and a half north on Caernarfon Road (the B4411; Tel:01766/522115), which has good camping (£7 per tent) and a bunkhouse (£7 per person). Mynydd Ednyfed (Tel:01766/523269, Web: www.criccieth.net ; Price: £70) is a classy country hotel a mile north on Caernarfon Road.

Good restaurants are abundant: make for Moelwyn (see above), which has a superb sea-facing restaurant; or head out to Mynydd Ednyfed (see above). The Prince of Wales, on Stryd Fawr, offers a great pub atmosphere and decent bar meals.