Over the last century ABERSOCH, a former fishing village pitched in the middle of two golden bays, has become a thoroughly anglicized resort, with a distinctly haughty opinion of itself. Such high self-esteem isn't really justified, but at high tide the harbour is attractive, and the long swathe of the beach-hut-backed Town Beach is a fine spot. A short walk along the beach shakes off most of the crowds, but it's better to make for three-mile-long Porth Neigwl (Hell's Mouth), two miles to the southwest, which ranks as one of the country's best surf beaches; you'll need your own gear, and beware of the undertow if you're swimming.
You can get instruction and rent windsurfers, surfboards and wetsuits from West Coast Surf Shop, Lôn Pen Cei (Tel:01758/713067, Web: www.westcoastsurf.co.uk ), by the harbour in Abersoch. For accommodation, try the modest and comfortable Llwyn Du, Lôn Sarn Bach (Tel:01758/712186, Web: www.bedandbreakfastabersoch.co.uk ; Price: £40); Angorfa Guesthouse, Lôn Sarn Bach (Tel:01758/712967, Web: www.angorfa.com ; Price: £50); and the welcoming Goslings at the Carisbrooke, Lôn Sarn Bach (Tel:01758/712526, Web: www.goslingsabersoch.co.uk ; Price: £70), good for families.
Among the decent places to eat is Mañana, on Lôn Pen Cei, serving Mexican food, while just up the road is Angelina's (Tel:01758/712353), a classy Italian with a broad menu (plus tasty desserts). The Ship, out of town in Llanbedrog, near Pwllheli, is excellent.