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East of Zennor, the road runs four hilly miles on to the steeply built town of ST IVES , a place that has smoothly undergone the transition to holiday haunt from its previous role as a centre of the fishing industry. So productive were the offshore waters that a record sixteen and a half million fish were caught in one net on a single day in 1868, and the diarist Francis Kilvert was told by the local vicar that the smell was sometimes so great as to stop the church clock. By the time the pilchard reserves dried up around the early years of the last century, the town was beginning to attract a vibrant artists' colony , … more »

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