From Speyside, the Windward Road strikes inland, climbing steeply upwards through jungle-like mountain foliage before plummeting down to the opposite shoreline. Just before the descent, there's a stunning perspective over Charlotteville, its houses tumbling down the hillside to the calm waters of the bay. Snugly situated under the protective cover of the two-kilometre-wide Man O' War Bay, Charlotteville is Tobago's foremost fishing community – more than 60 percent of the island's total catch is brought in by local fishermen. The town has an isolated feel, and though the tourist dollar is steadily encroaching, the atmosphere is so friendly that it's hard not to relax.
Increasingly popular as a retreat, accommodation gets booked up quickly. There's little to do but arrange a fishing trip, while away the hours on the fine yellow sand of Man O' War BayBeach (open during daylight hours; changing facilities TT$1) or enjoy the excellent snorkelling in the sublime Pirate's Bay, a short but steep walk from the village along a track that strikes out around the headland just beyond the pier. Benches along the sea wall, the pier and a covered pavilion are popular liming spots, great for soaking up the village scene. In July, Man O' War Bay is the site of Tobago's most popular fisherman's fete, held to celebrate St Peter's Day.