Klosters-Platz, Switzerland

Klosters (1190m) steals quite a march on its neighbour Davos in terms of ambience. Klosters has peace and quiet, an appealing huddle of dark-wood chalets and a village atmosphere. It's linked to Davos's Parsenn ski slopes, and the two share a lift pass covering each other's pistes and mountain transport: in choosing a base, you could shun Davos altogether.

Klosters Platz is the centre of things, and has the main train station; the smaller, quieter Klosters Dorf sits 2km north, with its own station. Both are on the Landquart– Davos line, and are also linked by town buses, which are free with the resort's Guest Card.

Klosters has far fewer hotels than Davos, with a greater proportion of upmarket properties. The cosy HI hostelSoldanella Jugendherberge is at Talstrasse 73, a fifteen-minute climb above Platz (Tel:081 422 13 16, Web: www.youthhostel.ch ; Price: Under Fr.100; dorms Fr.29). The weathered-wood Sonne, Hauptstrasse 155 (Tel:081 422 13 49, Web: www.sonne-klosters.ch ; Price: Fr.100-150), is one of the best low-end hotels, with simple shared-bath rooms, some with balcony. The family-run Silvapina, on the edge of Dorf near the Madrisabahn, Silvapinaweg 6 (Tel:081 422 14 68, Web: www.silvapina.ch ; Price: Fr.100–250), is a fine choice, with attractive guest rooms and good service. Chesa Grischuna, Bahnhofstrasse 12 in Platz (Tel:081 422 22 22, Web: www.chesagrischuna.ch ; Price: Fr.250–350), may look like a tumbledown old chalet from the outside, but is one of the liveliest and chicest places in town, with a good deal of style and character, with cut-price rooms in a chalet annexe. Prince Charles's establishment of choice is the Walserhof, Landstrasse 141 (Tel:081 410 29 29, Web: www.walserhof.ch ; Price: Fr.250–400), a relatively small, cosy Relais & Châteaux hotel that displays a superb attention to detail.

Most of the hotels have restaurants attached: the Sonne (closed Mon & Tues) is a good budget choice, with good regional menus starting from Fr.16, while the Vereina restaurant in the heart of Platz serves quality pizzas. The modest Wynegg, Landstrasse 205 (Tel:081 422 13 40; winter only), enjoys royal patronage, serving beer and hearty meals that are surprisingly affordable; while to eat at chichi Chesa Grischuna, you should book two weeks in advance and expect to lose a fistful of francs. The Walserhof restaurant has two Michelin stars for its outstanding cuisine and service.