Lausanne, the capital of the canton of Vaud, is superbly located 40 minutes from the big city of Geneva (well, big for Switzerland) and 20 minutes from the lakeside resort towns of Montreux and Vevey. Lausanne is a small city of only 125,000 people. If you travel a kilometer or two in any direction you wind up in vineyards or villages or by the lake. It is truly a city with an extremely high quality of life.
Ouchy
There are only two distinct neighborhoods in Lausanne: the beach and the city. Like most lake or seaside cities, the beach is where the city people head as often as possible. Lausanne's closest beach is in a district called Ouchy . It is where you will find open-air movie theaters, rollerbladers, ice skaters, cyclists, walkers (Self-guided tours), swimmers ( Bellerive ), visitors to the Olympic museum , long stretches of boardwalk, sunsets over Lake Geneva , French tourists, and sailors (Ciels Bleus).
The activities on the largest freshwater lake in Europe are practically endless. You can sail, fish, swim, water-ski, wakeboard, windsurf, or all of the above. Summer is short in Switzerland, so once the temperatures warm up, the inhibitions come off: this is playtime and the Swiss and tourists alike take to the water in droves. But don't worry, there is plenty to go around, literally: The lake is 72.3 kilometers (45 miles) long.
Although it sounds pretty unbelievable, spending time along this lake in the summer beats hanging out in the more famous places like Nice. No faux glamor, no polluted noisy streets nearby, no pretentiousness.
Vidy
In towns like Ouchy and Lutry, a few kilometers east, there are easy-going folks swimming, fishing and dining, small pedestrian paths to walk along, beautiful turquoise water, quaint cafes with lake views, and all this without the ridiculous drunken crowds that race to the traditional beaches of France and Italy. And while you are less likely to come across a topless beach in Switzerland - there is some nakedness on Vidy beach .
Center
The city is where you will find upscale stores Bang & Olufsen, A L'Emeraude , tourist attractions, excellent restaurants, cafes, parks, and all the best of the big cities without the crime and the grime. Most tourists head to the Place St. Francois where you will find the church of the same name ( St-François Church ), hip cafe-restaurants like Le Cafe Romand and Nyff Nyffenegger . Keep the hip places on your left and you will wind up on rue de Bourg, the main ritzy shopping street in Lausanne. Turn left at the Banque Cantonale Vaudoise, which has a logo that conveniently points the way, and you will walk right to Place de la Palud .
Old Town
Lausanne's Old Town has its own attractions, such as the Madeleine Statue and the Town Hall but it is also a main hub of Lausanne. This is car-free, bus-free territory, where the pedestrian rules. From here, you can walk to the grand Place Riponne and its many museums, rue Saint-Laurent, the Old Town, the Cathedral and just about everywhere else.
Flon
Lausanne is hilly, walkable and entirely livable. There are a few nightclubs in the alternative neighborhood of Flon, most notably MAD , which plays host to some pretty good live shows. But mostly, this is a city worth visiting because it is accessible and clean with a long history and a joie de vivre that rivals its Latin neighbors.
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For a small city of only 125,000 people, Lausanne is a pretty hip place. There are two main reasons for this, By being a big promoter of culture and the arts, Lausanne stands out from decidedly non-artsy cities like Geneva or Zurich, and secondly, there are a lot of students in town who tend to liven things up regardless of where they hang out.
Center
There are three or four absolute must-visit places in Lausanne. The most famous is probably Cave du Bleu Lezard where you will find the best live music, the coolest crowd, and fairly good food and drink with it. Don't be intimidated by the hordes of people wearing black. This is where both regulars and tourists soak up the atmosphere so jump right in. Two other famous places are Cafe de L'Eveche and Le Cafe Romand . Cafe de L'Eveche is where to go for pasta, vegetarian dishes and beer fondue; Romand is where people first frequent as teenagers and continue to frequent well into retirement. You must try their cheese fondue.
On a completely different price and prestige level is La Grappe d'Or , generally considered the best restaurant in town. You will spend at least CHF100 for dinner, most likely around CHF150, and that is just for one person. Well, if you are going to splurge, do so on the set dinner, and if you want the name but not the hefty price tag, visit this restaurant's little sister La Petite Grappe, which is cheaper.
Old Town
The Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville (Crissier) is world-renowned and obligatory for anyone who truly loves food. Also called Restaurant Girardet, it specializes in fine French cuisine for the most part, but other dishes are available, depending on what is in season.
Lausanne Moudon is another excellent dining option specializing in brasserie-style cuisine. For a late-night drink, head to L'Arlov Jazz, or get a drink at VO in the same building. Open until 4a, almost unheard of in Lausanne, order a single malt or a cocktail, sit back and hear the smooth sounds of jazz on jam night Wednesdays or DJs on the weekends. Free entry, cheap drinks, and good jazz. Hard to beat, for sure. But if you wanted to try, head to MAD or Loft Electroclub for long nights of dancing and drinking to very loud live music.
Ouchy
For calm evenings, other highly recommended places include: Ma Jong for expensive but excellent Chinese food, Le Restaurant de la Croix d'Ouchy for delicious Swiss cuisine featuring smoked duck and goat cheese, the White Horse Pub for laid-back pub grub, Le Cafe Theâtre for meat or fish dinner with the locals (plus live music at night), enjoy an omelet at The Fox Cafe and pre-movie fries and a cocktail at Art Zoo.
As a general rule, cafes, bars and restaurants located around Place St-François are trendy, fun, but overpriced; those situated in the Flon district or around rue Enning will be cheaper and funkier; establishments around Place de la Palud tend to attract the locals and are lower key. Finding a good meal in Lausanne is not a problem as most places take pride in serving fresh food. You are not likely to be disappointed regardless of where you head, expect perhaps by the cost, as food and drink are not cheap in this rather expensive city.
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