Zamora, Spain

ZAMORA, only 50km from the Portuguese border, is the quietest of the great Castilian cities, with a population of just 65,000. In medieval romances, it was known as la bien cercada (the well-enclosed) on account of its strong fortifications; one siege here lasted seven months – and its beguiling streets and squares still make for an attractive overnight stay.

The joy of Zamora lies in its quiet, western old-town quarter – still walled and medieval in appearance, though looking decidedly spruce and scrubbed these days – spread out along the top of a ridge that slopes down to the banks of the Río Duero. Above all, its dozen Romanesque churches (all Tues– Sun: Feb– Sept 10am–1pm & 5–8pm; Oct– Dec 10am–2pm & 4.30–6.30pm; free), are consistent in their unassumingly beautiful architecture, and towers populated by colonies of storks. The majority date from the twelfth century and reflect Castile's sense of security following the victorious campaigns against the Moors by Alfonso VI and El Cid. All are worthy of a closer look, though San Juan de Puerta Nueva (Plaza Mayor), La Magdalena (Rua de los Francos) and Santiago del Burgo (c/Santa Clara) are considered the highlights.

Opposite Santa María la Nueva, slightly west of Plaza Mayor, the Museo de la Semana Santa (Tues– Sat 10am–2pm & 5–8pm, Sun 10am–2pm; € 3) contains the pasos – statues depicting the Passion of Christ – which are paraded through the streets during Zamora's famous Holy Week processions.