Ribadesella, Spain

RIBADESELLA is an unaffected old port, split into two by the Sella river, and bridged by a long causeway. The entrancing old town, crammed up against the hillside to the east, consists of successive long stone alleyways, running parallel to the fishing harbour and bursting with great little bars and comedores. Freshly caught fish is still unloaded after midnight at the lonja and, although the catch is increasingly small, it's fun to hang out in the bars and watch it being hauled in. In the seafood joints lining the harbour you can sample delicacies such as centolla (spider crab) and lubina (sea bass), as well as Asturian specialities.

To the west, the excellent town beach, Playa Santa Marina, is lined with the impressive nineteenth-century mansions built by returning emigrants who'd prospered in the Americas. The seafront itself is a pleasant pedestrian promenade. Turn away from the sea at the west end of the bridge, along the riverbank, and in 200m you'll reach the Cueva Tito Bustillo (mid-March to mid-Sept Wed– Sun 10am–4.30pm; € 4, no children under 7). This Altamira-style cave is more impressive for its stalactites than its paintings, though it has a museum of prehistoric finds.

When it comes to food, the old town holds almost infinite possibilities. The Rompeolas, c/Manuel Fernandez Juncos 9, is a classic old sidrería, with good grub and tables in the courtyard at the back, while both the cheerful Sidrería La Marina on c/Manuel Caso de la Villa and Café Gaspar on Plaza de Iglesia offer outdoor dining.