The city of Bilbao is divided into eight districts, but we get a better picture of the true topography if we keep in mind that the city is divided by Nervión estuary into two halves.
Deusto
To get to District 1, called Deusto, you have to cross either the recently-built Puente (bridge) de Euskalduna or the older Puente de Deusto, which up till a few years ago still used to be raised to let big boats pass under. Walk along the Ribera (bank) de Deusto to get a glimpse of how one part of the estuary flows through city life. While here, a must-see is the Universidad de Deusto . Established in the 19th Century and run by Jesuits, this university has been the alma mater of such luminaries as the banker Mario Conde, the politician Arzalluz or the former president ("Lehendakari") of the Basque government, Garaikoetxea. All in all, the neighborhood has a rather student-like feeling and is filled with bars, cafes, restaurants, etc. If you've been out partying all evening, this is a great place to pass the very last hours of the night.
Uribarri & Begoña
Still on the same side of the estuary, use either the Calatrava footbridge or the Puente del Ayuntamiento to get to District 2, called Uribarri. Take a stroll in Campo Volantín or get a closer peek at the Ayuntamiento de Bilbao (City Hall). From here we can take the Funicular de Artxanda to the top of Archanda Hill, from where we can enjoy the fantastic views and the fresh air, or have a bite to eat in one of the many restaurants.
From here it's straight over to District 4, Begoña, where we find the Santa María de Begoña , the "Amatxo" (mother) of Bilbao. Walk to the church along the Calzadas de Mallona , which begins in the Casco Viejo , you can also take the Ascensor de Begoña or the metro.
Casco Viejo
We've arrived in District 5, the Casco Viejo. It's clear how one can easily spend time in this lively neighborhood—eating and drinking in one of the numerous establishments, listening to the street musicians, and doing a bit of shopping. But before diving into the sensual delights of the Casco Viejo there's a few other things you could see, such as the Centro Cívico de La Bolsa o Palacio Yohn . Or look at La Sociedad Bilbaína , one of the old-established and most elegant cultural and recreational societies in Spain. If you're the gaming type you can try your luck at Gran Casino Nervión . For more high culture, cross the Puente del Arenal to visit the Teatro Arriaga and the San Nicolás de Bari church. Once there you can slowly make your way to Siete Calles by way of the Ribera, taking in the Puente de La Merced on the way to the Iglesia de San Antón (but don't forget to stop in the Mercado de La Ribera and admire the amazing selection of vegetables, fish and meat!). Finally we are in the heart of Casco Viejo, and just like a pilgrim tracing the route of the Camino de Santiago, let's make our final stop here at the Catedral de Santiago .
Abando
Time to hop over to the other side of the estuary, to Abando, District 6. Beginning at the monument on the Plaza del Sagrado Corazón, stroll down the Gran Vía de Don Diego López de Haro. Measuring one-and-a-half kilometers, this avenue is lined with houses with charming façades—keep an eye out especially for the Edificio Sota and the Edificio de la Diputación . A stroll down the Gran Vía will take you along the relaxing Parque de Doña Casilda Iturrizar with its Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao (Museum of Fine Arts). Halfway down the Gran Vía we come to the quaint Plaza Moyúa . At the far end of Gran Vía, we come to Plaza Circular where monument in honor of the founder of the town sits. Other places worth checking out in this area are the Palacio de Justicia, the Iglesia de San Vicente (a church in 12th-century Basque Gothic style), the Jardín de Albia and the Mercado del Ensanche. As well, we're not far from two streets that are very popular for bar hopping, Ledesma and Licenciado Poza. From here we can see the city's "other" cathedral, that is to say, the Estadio de Fútbol de San Mames , which may not be quite as spiritual as the Catedral de Santiago , but you can be sure there are many citizens of this town that consider the city's soccer team, Athletic de Bilbao, to be sacred! For real soccer fun head all the way to Mazarredo street and visit the little palace that houses the headquarters of the Athletic. The area around Mazarredo is another very popular night haunt, as are the pubs found in the Urquijo galerías (passageways). And for lovers of a bloodier sport, we're not far from the Plaza de Toros de Vista Alegre (whose name ironically means "Happy View Bullfighting Ring") and its bullfighting museum, the Museo Taurino. There's a lot of other places to visit in this district, such as the Museo Guggenheim Bilbao , the Palacio Euskalduna, the Estación de Abando (a.k.a. Estación del Norte) with it's magnificent stained-glass windows, the Santa Casa de Misericordia, and the Alhóndiga.
Rekalde
The last district, District 7, called Rekalde, is reached by crossing the highway to Larrasquitu. This is a popular excursion for people wanting to scale the Pagasarri hill. At the top there is a little refuge from where one gets some splendid views of the south side of the "botxo" (the pit). If you don't already know why Bilbao is known affectionately by this name, you will once you see it from here!
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At this stage nobody could doubt the cosmopolitan character that Bilbao has been gaining over the last few years. This globalization reaches out to all areas of Bilbao society, from culture and communications to leisure activities and gastronomy. And focusing on the latter two, free time and food, let us make it clear that the capital of Biscay is open to all new currents and trends, being a city that has always faced towards Europe. This is not to say that Bilbao has abandoned its own way of doing things; on the contrary, it's a city that has always known how to blend the most modern of outside influences with the deeply-rooted local customs.
Restaurants
If we can say that the Basque Lands in general are known for their culinary traditions, then it must be pointed out that the region of Biscay, and therefore its capital Bilbao, are the absolute masters in the art of Basque cuisine. Thanks to the city's proximity to the sea, fish are the ubiquitous stars of the local restaurants. Specifically codfish, called bacalao is the most typical dish in restaurants which offer traditional Basque cuisine (which is the majority). Made in Biscayan style or pil-pil this fish will win the heart of anyone who tries it. Fresh vegetables are held in high esteem as well. For the best in traditional Basque cuisine based on good seafood and excellent meat, try restaurants such as Amboto , Zortziko , Guria , Matxinbenta , El Perro Chico , Mandoya or Urrejola. For a modern spin on traditional Basque cooking try Baita Gaminiz or Ariatza Jatetxea . Or for some excellent home-made pastries, try Víctor , located on the legendary Plaza Nueva. For a great value on dinner try Monterrey , or the grill La Gabarra . For tasty castillian food, go straight to Asador Aranda .
El Tapeo & El Poteo
And of course, Basque cuisine isn't always enjoyed sitting down. In fact, the majority of eating establishments are probably devoted to that ancient Basque pastime, the tapeo which means going from place to place trying special tapas along with their best house wine. The poteo is another version, where one does the route of bars drinking potes wine served in little glasses. The area of "poteo" par excellence is the Casco Viejo and its Seven Streets, although you could just as easily try the area Pozas, which is made up of the street Licenciado Pozas and the surrounding neighborhood. Some places to try on your evening of poteo are Urrejola, Farketa , Lekeitio , and the legendary Iruña , a bar dating from 1903 decorated in a curious Mudejar Arab style.
International Cuisine
Another important part of the Basque culinary scene has been the increasing number of restaurants that offer international cuisine, thanks to the aforementioned growing cosmopolitan nature of the city. So there are establishments whose decoration and ambiance show a marked English influence, such as Atlanta , or restaurants specializing in German food, such as Ein Prosit Bilbao . And then there are the Asian restaurants which are becoming more and more popular with the locals, as well as restaurants with cuisines from other parts of the world which have brought some exotic ambiance to Bilbao, such as the Peruvian restaurant Ají Colorado or the Mexican Charro Loco , where you will be delighted with authentic Mexican music as well. And we mustn't forget places such as the spectacular Moana Beach , which offers magnificent shows that are sure to leave the guests dazzled.
The restaurants outside of Bilbao, aside from rivaling the quality of the cuisine found in the capital, have the extra advantage of offering their patrons some exquisite views of the sea or of the interior of the province. We could name some of the coastal restaurants like Cubita , while inland we find places such as Andra Mari , Aretxondo or Baserri Maitea . There can be no doubt that Bilbao and nearby towns have a culinary tradition that will satisfy even the most demanding of gourmets.
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