Figueres, Spain

Irrevocably linked to Salvador Dalí, the town of FIGUERESis all but overshadowed by the Teatre-Museu Dalí, installed by the artist in a building as surreal as the exhibits within, and the only reason most people come here. Stay longer, though, and you'll find a pleasant county town with a lively rambla and a few other worthwhile sights.

The huge Castell de Sant Ferran (daily: July– Sept 10.30am–7pm; Oct– June 10.30am–2pm; € 5.50), 1km northwest of town, was built in 1753 to defend against French invasion, and remains one of the vastest citadels in Europe. During the Civil War, it was used as a barracks for newly arrived members of the International Brigade, and also served as the Republicans' last bastion, when Figueres became their capital for a week in February 1939 after the fall of Barcelona. More recently, it was used as a prison for Colonel Tejero after his failed coup attempt in 1981. The outer circuit of star-shaped walls exceeds 3km, so consider shelling out another € 10 for a two-hour tour that includes a jeep ride around the perimeter, and then a dinghy trip through the cathedral-like water cisterns under the parade ground, engineering marvels sufficient to outlast a year's siege.