Twenty kilometres from Potes – far enough to feel that you're finally deep into the heart of the mountains – ESPINAMA is a totally delightful little village, spilling down the hillside at the mouth of a slender gorge cut by the little Río Nevandi. Like Cosgaya, it straddles a busy road, but when the traffic dies down after dark it's a magical spot, and in the daytime there are plenty of walks in the nearby woods and meadows for those seeking rural tranquillity.
Several great-value accommodation options in Espinama offer cosy en-suite rooms, mountain views, and good food year-round, including Puente Deva (942 736 658, www.hostalpuentedeva.com; under 35), Remoña (942 736 605, firstname.lastname@example.org; 36-50), and the slightly more upmarket Hostal Nevandi (942 736 608, www.apartamentosnevandi.com; 51-70), which also has some well-priced self-catering apartments. The best of the restaurants is Vicente Campo at the Puente Deva ( 11 menú), with its feel of a wayfarers' inn, and a crackling fire in winter. There's also a grocery store in the village.