Ciudad Real, Spain

CIUDAD REAL, capital of the province at the heart of this flat country, makes a good base for excursions and has connections by bus with most villages in the area. It has a few sights of its own, too, including a Mudéjar gateway, the Puerta de Toledo, which fronts the only surviving fragment of its medieval walls, at the northern edge of the city on the Toledo road. Further in, take a look at the fourteenth-century church of San Pedro, an airy, Gothic edifice, housing some exquisite chapels and an elaborate fifteenth-century alabaster retablo, and the Museo Provincial (July– Aug Tues– Sat 10am–2pm; Sept– July Tues– Sat 10am–2pm & 5–8pm, Sun 10am–2pm; free), a modern building opposite the cathedral, with two floors of local archeology (the second also has some stuffed local wildlife) and a third devoted to artists of the region. More entertaining is the Museo de Don Quijote (July– Aug daily 10am–2pm; Sept– June Mon– Sat 10am–2pm & 5–8pm, Sun 10am–2pm; free), where personalities from the story guide you round the exhibits that include some smart audiovisuals bringing the tale to life.