Cangas de ONíS, Spain

The busy market town of CANGAS DE ONIS stands at the junction of the main routes between the Picos and central Asturias. The surrounding peaks provide a magnificent if distant backdrop to its big sight – the so-called Puente Romano (Roman Bridge), splashed across the front of many Asturian tourist brochures. Although this high-arched bridge, with its cross dangling beneath, has been rebuilt many times, it retains a good deal of charm.

As an early residence of the fugitive Asturian-Visigothic kings, Cangas lays claim to the title of "First Capital of Christian Spain". Today, however, it belies such history: a somewhat scruffy, functional town, specializing in activity tourism, though good for a comfortable night, a drink in a nice little bar like ALa Sifonería, a small tiled sidrería and tapas bar on c/San Pelayo, south of Avda. de Covadonga, and a solid meal after a spell in the mountains. It also abounds in souvenir stores selling local food and drink, such as cheese, cider and multi-coloured fabadas (beans).

Local buses stop in the heart of town, on Plaza Ayuntamiento, on Avda. de Covadonga east of the bridge, while there's a national park visitor centre a short way east in Casa Dago, Avda. de Covadonga 43 (985 848 614, reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es). Adventure tour operators are dotted throughout town.