Baiona, Spain

BAIONA (Bayona) is situated just before the open sea at the head of a miniature ría, the smallest and southernmost in Galicia. This small and colourful port, which nowadays makes a healthy living from upscale tourism, was the first place in Europe to hear of the discovery of the New World, when Columbus's Pinta appeared on March 1, 1493. An exact replica of the Pinta sits in the harbour (daily 10am–8.30pm; € 2), which these days contains pleasure yachts rather than fishing boats.

The medieval walls that surround the wooded promontory adjoining Baiona enclose an idyllic parador; it's hard to imagine a better location for a hotel. Totally surrounded by genuine medieval walls, the AParador Conde de Gondomar (986 355 000, www.parador.es; € 201-250), is a modern version of a traditional Galego manor house, where the spacious, comfortable rooms enjoy superb views. Walking around the parapet provides changing, unobstructed views across the ría to the Illas Cíes. Another hugely enjoyable footpath circles beneath the walls at sea level, and provides access to several diminutive beaches. These are not visible from the town proper, which has only a small, if attractive, patch of sand.

Further hotels line the seafront esplanade and the narrow pedestrianized Rúa Ventura Misa just behind it. The most appealing is the Pazo de Mendoza, a converted manor house with sea views (986 385 014, www.pazodemendoza.es; from € 71). The Hotel Tres Carabelas is at Rúa Ventura Misa 61 (986 355 441, www.hoteltrescarabelas.com; from € 51).

Seafood restaurants abound on Praza Pedro de Castro and along Rúa Ventura Misa. Among the best are El Túnel, at no. 21, and Plaza, a little farther along, both of which have outdoor seating. Jaqueyvi on Rúa de Reloxo is a smart little restaurant that specializes in rice with fish.

Galicia's best-known beach lies a couple of kilometres east, across the mouth of the bay. The Praia de América is a superb, long curve of clean sand that remains surprisingly underdeveloped. The huge, year-round Playa Américacampsite has lots of rental bungalows (986 365 404, www.campingplayaamerica.com; bungalows from € 71.