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ANTEQUERA , on the main rail line to Granada, is an ordinary, modern town, but it does have peripheral attractions in a Baroque church, El Carmen (Mon 11.30am–2pm, Tues–Sun 10am–2pm, Sat also 4–7pm; €1.20), which houses one of the finest retablos in Andalucía, and a group of three prehistoric dolmen caves . The most impressive and famous of these is the Cueva de Menga (Sun & Tues 9am–3.30pm, Wed–Sat 9am–6pm; free), its roof formed by an immense 180-tonne monolith. To reach this, and the nearby Cueva de Viera (same hours), take the Granada road out of town … more »

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