South Africa's 1990s tourist boom rudely shook KNYSNA (pronounced "Nize-na") from its gentle backwoods drowse, which for decades made this the hippy and craftwork capital and quiet retirement village of the country. The town, 102km east of Mossel Bay, now stands at the hub of the Garden Route; its lack of ocean beaches is compensated by its hilly setting around the lagoon, and some hot marketing. The lagoon's narrow mouth is guarded by a pair of steep rocky promontories called The Heads , the western side being a private nature reserve and the eastern one an exclusive residential area along … more »

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