Michalovce, Slovakia

Just under 60km east of Košice, and 35km west of the Ukrainian border, MICHALOVCE (Web: www.michalovce.sk ) is the main point of arrival for people heading for the Zemplínska Šírava or Slovak Sea. Frequent buses and trains run from Košice to Michalovce, though for some train services, you may have to change at Bánovce nad Ondravou. Note, too, that the train station is a good 2km west of the town centre, whereas the bus station is just east of the main square.

Other than to change buses, there's no compelling reason to hang around in Michalovce. However, if you do find yourself with an hour to spare between departures, you could head for the Zemplínske múzeum (June– Aug Tues– Fri 9am– noon & 1–5pm, Sun 2–5pm; Sept– May Tues– Fri 9am– noon & 1–3.30pm), housed in the chateau behind the bus station. The elongated, pedestrianized main square, Námestie osloboditeov, makes for a pleasant stroll; note the great turquoise tenement from 1911, now housing the bank and Bohéma café, topped by a giant beehive and decorated with attractive stuccowork.

If you wish to stay the night, there are just two mid-range modern hotels to choose from: the Hotel Jalta (Tel:056/642 60 86, Web: www.jalta.sk ; Sk2000-2500), Námestie osloboditeov 70, is the newcomer, and probably has the edge over the Hotel Družba (Tel:056/642 0452, Web: www.hoteldruzba.sk ; Sk1500-2000), by the bus station, though both are pretty comfortable. For local Zemplín cuisine, try Lagúna, a block north of the main square in the Centralný mestský park, where there's also a café and wine shop.