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Slovak towns rarely amount to much more than their one long main square, and even KOšICE , the country's second-largest city, is no exception. Rather like Bratislava, Košice was, until relatively recently, a modest little town on the edge of the Hungarian plain. Then, in the 1950s, the Communists established a giant steelworks on the outskirts of the city. Fifty years on, Košice has a population of around 250,000, a number of worthwhile museums, arguably Slovakia's finest cathedral, and a lively cosmopolitanism that can be quite reassuring after a journey in the back-of-beyond. Just … more »

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