With its cupolas, Baroque outcroppings and weathered fin-de-siècle backstreets, downtown CLUJ (Klausenburg to the Germans and Kolozsvár to the Hungarians) looks every inch the Hungarian provincial capital it once was. The town was founded by Germans in the twelfth century for the Hungarian King Geza, and the modern-day Magyars a third of the city's population still regrets its decline, fondly recalling the Magyar belle époque , when Cluj's café society and literary reputation surpassed all other cities in the Balkans. Most Romanians think otherwise: for … more »
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