TOMAR , 34km east of Fátima, is famous for the Convento de Cristo, an artistic tour de force which entwines the main military, religious and imperial strands in the history of Portugal. However, it's an attractive town in its own right – especially during the Festas dos Tabuleiros, in the first week of July, when the place goes wild – and is worth a day or two. Built on a simple grid plan, Tomar's old quarters preserve all their traditional charm, with whitewashed cottages lining narrow cobbled streets. On the central Praça da República stands an elegant seventeenth-century … more »