Aljezur, Portugal

ALJEZUR is the liveliest town along the west coast of the Algarve, though some way inland from any beaches. The main coast road passes through a prosaic, modern lower town where you find banks, the post office and a range of cafés and restaurants. The more interesting historic centre spreads uphill beyond the bridge over the Aljezur river, a network of narrow cobbled streets reaching up through whitewashed houses to the remains of a tenth-century Moorish castle. It's a lovely walk with sweeping views over the valley, via a trio of dull museums.

At the foot of the old town, the turismo, in Largo do Mercado, by the river, does its best to help with private rooms. Most places to stay are in the suburb of Igreja Nova, 1km from the tourist office. Best bet is the modern Residencial Dom Sancho, Largo Igreja Nova 1 (Tel:282 997 070, eturimol@mail.telepac.pt; Price: € 36-55), which overlooks a pedestrianized street. Rooms are large and comfortable and come with bath and TV. The local campsite, Parque de Campismo do Serrão (Tel:282 990 220, ecamping-serrao@clix.pt), has its own pool, supermarket and tennis courts amongst dense trees; it's 7km northwest of Aljezur, and 4km from the lovely beach of Praia Amoreira.

There are several inexpensive cafés and restaurants in Aljezur, most of them along the main through-road, Rua 25 de Abril. Restaurante Ruth at no. 14 (Tel:282 998 534; closed Sat) is highly regarded, specializing in regional dishes such as goose barnacles and sweet potatoes. Also moderately priced, but in a better position, Pont'a Pé, near the tourist office on Largo da Liberdade 16 (Tel:282 998 104; closed Sun), offers grills in a cosy diner or on the riverside terrace. Live music most weekends competes with the sound of the resident frogs.