Roxas City, Philippines

It's about 25km from Estancia to ROXAS, capital of Capiz province, which has a reputation among Filipinos as being a hotbed of witches and shamans. Roxas is a hot, hectic urban sprawl that probably won't form part of your Philippines itinerary unless you decide to use it as a gateway to Panay's unexplored northeast corner and the islands around Estancia.

The airport, ten minutes north of the city by jeepney or tricycle in Arnaldo Boulevard, is served from Manila by Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific. Philippine Airlines' ticket office is at the airport (Tel:036/621 0618), while Cebu Pacific has two offices, one at the airport (Tel:036/621 0663) and the other in Legaspi Ilawood Street (Tel:036/621 0307).

Ferries from Manila, including WG&A's Our Lady of Lipa, dock at the Calusi pier, a short distance to the west of the city. The main ticket office for WG&A is in Jugo Building, Rizal Street (Tel:036/621 5567), although there's also one at the pier and another at Hughes Street corner Arnolda Boulevard (Tel:036/621 0231). Other companies sailing here from Manila include Moreta Shipping Lines (at Calusi Pier; Tel:036/621 0238) and Negros Navigation (their office is at the 1km marker, Roxas Ave; Tel:036/621 1473 or 3822).

Jeepneys and buses for Kalibo and Estancia use the Alba terminus south of the Panay River, reachable by tricycle (P6). This is also a good place to pick up FX vans to Kalibo. The Ceres Liner bus station for buses to and from Iloilo via the interior is next to the Caltex petrol station on the National Highway.

The best accommodation in Roxas is the central Roxas President's Inn at the junction of Rizal Avenue and Lopez Jaena Street (Tel:036/621 0208; P500-700). Rooms are spacious, en suite and well looked after, and the rate usually includes breakfast. Halaran Plaza Hotel in Rizal Street (Tel:036/621 0649; Under P500), opposite the city hall, has a choice of comfortable fan and air-conditioned rooms, plus a popular ground-floor Chinese restaurant.