El Nido, Philippines

EL NIDO is a compact, relaxed town of narrow streets hemmed against the shore by the sheer Marble Cliffs at the back; you can walk from one end of town to the other in a matter of minutes. Don't miss the one-hour climb to the top of the Marble Cliffs; it's a strenuous haul, but the views are magnificent. The town's main beach has fantastic views, but the beach itself is only average and not especially attractive for swimming because of the number of bancas coming and going. Sunset Lover's beach is much better and only a short walk along the coastal path heading north.

Buses and jeepneys arrive at the northern end of Calle Hama Street, a stone's throw from the beach. From the airport, served by Seair, it's a twenty-minute tricycle ride into town (P180 per tricycle). The pier is at the southern end of the beach, a short walk from accommodation.

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The tourist office on Calle Real Street (daily 8am–6pm), near the town hall one block inland from the beach, is one of the best in the country, with useful hand-drawn maps of the area, a list of accommodation and information on trips and activities. Another good place to get up-to-date local information is the El Nido Boutique & Art Shop in Palmera Street. You can change money at many of the resorts and also at the general store on Calle Real Street, opposite the police station, which is next to the town hall; there's another police station at the end of the pier. There are a number of reliable dive operators including Amihan Sports, at the southern end of town in Palmera Street, and El Nido Marine Club (Tel:0916/668 2748), which is hard to miss right in the middle of the beach.

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