La Palma, Panama

LA PALMA's spectacular setting, overlooking the broad mouth of the Río Tiura, surrounded by densely forested mountains and with ruined colonial forts for neighbours, makes it a worthy capital of Darién Province, however small it may be. The town clings to a steep slope that runs down to the seafront; the only street, a narrow strip of concrete, is the focus of all the town's pent-up energy – on weekend evenings it feels like a miniature city. Indeed, soaking up the atmosphere while you negotiate the next leg of your Darién travels is about all there is to do. Although you can easily work out how much transportation to La Palma will cost it is far less easy to estimate what any onward travel is likely to set you back – it will have to be by boat, and the price of fuel is steadily rising. The opportunities to come into contact with indigenous communities are greater in the Sambú area, but to get there you need to fly (although a one-way boat ride from La Palma would be around the US$150 mark), which cranks up the expense of your Darién trip from the outset. Whilst you are here it's worth telling the police in town where you are going next, even if it is back on yourself, and checking on any developments or incidents in the region.