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FRANZ JOSEF GLACIER (Waiau) is the slightly larger of the two glacier villages, with a wider range of places to stay and an improving culinary scene. The Franz Josef glacier almost licks the fringes of the village, the Southern Alps tower above and developers have done what they can to create an alpine character with steeply pitched roofs and pine panelling. It is an appealing place, and small enough to make you feel almost like a local if you stay for more than a night or two – something that's easily done, considering the number of fine walks and the proximity of the glaciers.
 
 

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