CROMWELL is a dull, flat little service town whose gold-mining roots are waterlogged below the shimmering surface of the Lake Dunstan reservoir. Formed by the Clyde Dam 20km downstream, Lake Dunstan swamped much of Cromwell's historic core. The present-day town centre is uninspiringly modern, but the surrounding region is beginning to find its place on the tourist map thanks to its cluster of quality wineries, fruit orchards and old gold diggings.