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Just over fifteen minutes from Amsterdam by train, HAARLEM is a handsome, mid-sized city that sees itself as a cut above its neighbours. It makes a good alternative base for exploring North Holland, or even Amsterdam itself. The core of the city is Grote Markt and the adjoining Riviervischmarkt, flanked by the gabled, originally fourteenth-century Stadhuis and the impressive bulk of the Grote Kerk or Sint Bavokerk (Mon–Sat 10am–3.30/4pm; €2). Inside, the mighty Christian Müller organ of 1738 is said to have been played by Handel and Mozart. The town's main attraction is the … more »

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