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First impressions of PROGRESO – a working port with a vast concrete pier – are unprepossessing, but the beach is long and broad with fine white sand (though the water's not too clean) and it makes for a pleasant day out from Mérida. The shorefront behind the beach is built up all the way to Puerto Chicxulub , an unremarkable fishing village some 5km away, and a walk between the two takes you past the mansions of the old henequen exporters, interspersed with modern holiday villas and condominiums. Streets in Progreso are confusingly numbered using two overlapping systems: one has numbers in the … more »

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