Puerto Morelos, Mexico

Leaving Cancún behind, the first town south along the coast is PUERTO MORELOS, 20km away. The only remaining working fishing village in this area, it's a good place to hang out for a while, as it's less style-conscious than Playa del Carmen and has some lovely beaches. The reef offshore is also near-pristine, making it a good base for dive trips. Inland, on the dirt road to Central Vallarta, are some beautiful cenotes that are only just beginning to receive visitors. With direct bus service from the Cancún airport (9 daily, 8.30am–6.45pm), it's easy for visitors to bypass Cancún altogether, making Puerto Morelos their first stop along the Riviera Maya.