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If it's beaches you're after, SAN FELIPE , 12km west of Río Lagartos, is a good bet – many of the buses from Valladolid to Río Lagartos come out here. There's one good hotel in town, Hotel San Felipe de Jesus , C 9 between C 14 and C 16 (tel 9/862-2027; US$25–40), which also has a decent restaurant. However, most people get a boat (US$5 round trip) across to the offshore spit to set up camp on one of a number of beaches. At Mexican holiday times these are positively crowded, the rest of the year quite deserted. If you do camp, be sure to bring protection against mosquitoes; if not, it's … more »

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