The eastern cape is mostly known for its stunningly beautiful and largely undeveloped 120km of coastline between Bahía de los Muertos and San José's estuary. Within these few hundred kilometres there are only a handful of towns of note, along the water and inland. Ever since the Transpeninsular Highway's paving, developers have longed to transform this area into a resort area to rival Los Cabos in the south. So far, all they've done is clutter the unpaved roads – the only coastal roads here – with one billboard after another promising exclusive luxury enclaves and beautiful views of the sea.
The largest and most accessible resort is LOS BARRILES, a major fishing and windsurfing centre that takes advantage of the near-constant strong breeze in the bay. The wind, best in winter, is brilliant for experienced windsurfers (less so for beginners) and makes this a regular venue for international competitions. Hotels are expensive, and you almost certainly need to book in advance during high season in January and February; but you should be able to camp, either at one of the nearby trailer parks, or on the beach. Oddly, neither fishing nor windsurfing is easily arranged on the spot, and there's almost nowhere you can turn up and find an inexpensive room; Hotel Palmas de Cortés (Tel:624/141-0050, US Tel:1-800/368-4334, Web: www.palmasdecortez.com ; Price: M$1100-1500) is the landmark resort here, well established and able to arrange activities and outings for you. Their room prices always include three meals, and they have good deals for groups. A block away, you can stop for a bite at Tío Pablo's, a US-expat-run restaurant with a mammoth menu of delicious burgers, fish and salads.