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The tiny Muslim metropolis, KUALA TERENGGANU , 160km south of Kota Bharu, is a traditional place set on an estuary, with dozens of craft workshops and an exceptional cultural museum complex, the new Istana Tengku Long Museum (daily except Fri 9am–5pm; RM5), which is set in landscaped gardens 3km west of the centre. The main building displays exquisite fabrics and crafts, and details the history of Terengganu. Elsewhere in the compound, you'll find a fine exhibit of Koranic calligraphy, two traditional sailing boats, a small Maritime Museum and some reconstructed ancient timber palaces. The supreme … more »

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