You can feel the air temperature dropping as the road from Obama leaves sea level and climbs up towards the Unzen plateau (727m). The name means "fairyland among the clouds", perhaps inspired by the pure, mountain air and colourful flourishes of vegetation – azaleas in spring and autumn leaves – against which the onsen and their alter egos, the spitting, scalding jigoku ("hells"), compete for attention. Unzen town consists largely of resort hotels and souvenir shops strung out along the main road, but fortunately there's plenty of space around and a variety of walking … more »