Heading east from Shimonoseki along the San'in coast, you'll immediately notice how much more rugged and sparsely populated the landscape becomes. Here the savage Sea of Japan has eroded the rocks into jagged shapes and, if you take the train, you'll see some marvellously bleak shorelines. The next town of any consequence is HAGI , some 70km northeast of Shimonoseki, which dates back to 1604 when warlord Mori Terumoto built his castle at the tip of an island between the Hashimoto and Matsumoto rivers. Hagi's castle is long ruined, but the atmospheric graveyards of the Mori daimyo and the layouts … more »
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