Situated on the Shinkansen line between Tokyo and Osaka, the hot-spring resort of ATAMI serves as the eastern gateway to Izu. It's an expensive, sometimes garish, place but is home to the outstanding MOA Museum of Art (daily except Thurs 9.30am–5pm; ¥1600), which is carved into a hillside above the town. Though the steep admission is off-putting, the museum's remarkable architecture and collection of mostly ancient oriental art justify a visit. Note that you can buy slightly reduced tickets (¥1400) at the tourist information desk (Mon–Sat 10am–1.30pm & … more »

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