At Papine in northeast Kingston, the city slams to an abrupt halt as it meets the southern edge of the Mona Valley. From here, Gordon Town Road (B1) winds slowly upwards into the riverine hills. The road forks at the tiny village of The Cooperage; turning left here, the road winds for three miles to the friendly settlement of IRISH TOWN. Just over 3000 feet above sea level, it's a small farming community dominated by one magnificent hotel, Strawberry Hill (Tel:876/944-8400, Web: www.islandoutpost.com ; Price: US$351 and above including food and drink). This is among the most attractive places to stay in all of Jamaica, with beautifully landscaped gardens, a glorious decked pool providing panoramic city vistas, a sauna and an Aveda spa. It's fashionable amongst a well-heeled Kingston set, and is a favourite venue for society weddings and photo shoots. Bob Marley was also brought here to convalesce after being shot in 1976. Perched on the hillsides, the twelve individually designed luxury cottages – from studios to two-bedroom villas with full kitchens – offer fabulous views.
Even if you don't stay here, eating at Strawberry Hill is a must. The setting on the Great House balcony overlooking Kingston is exceptional, and the menu offers an eminently delicious combination of fresh local ingredients and sophisticated international-style cooking. The Sunday brunch (11.30am–3pm; book ahead) is an immensely popular local institution and very reasonably priced (around US$40). If you're after a less formal meal in Irish Town, the Crystal Cove at the roadside just south of the village offers excellent Jamaican cooking (including jerk chicken at the weekends) and lots of good-natured chat. Next door, Café Blue offers Blue Mountain coffees and delicious cakes.
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